108 - DVD Storage Case.pdf

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DVD STORAGE
CASE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
W
ooDWorking
t
eChnique
D
vD
S
torage
C
aSe
Organize your collection of DVDs in style with this easy-to-build,
versatile storage case.
{
The storage case works just as well
vertically. After standing it on end, just give
the drawers a quarter turn, and then slide
them back in place.
1
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It doesn’t take long to build up a
rather sizable collection of
DVD
s.
But the challenge is keeping them
all organized and neatly stored.
That’s just one of the reasons I like
the
DVD
storage case you see in
the photo above. Another reason
is that it’s easy to build. The few
simple joints you need to make can
all be done at the router table.
The final thing that makes this
project unique is the design of
the case. You can set the case hori-
zontally (photo above) and stack
a couple together so they’ll look
like an old library card catalog. Or
stand a single case on end (photo
at left) where it resembles a minia-
ture filing cabinet.
Regardless of its position, the
drawers slip in place smoothly. And
your collection stays organized
so you’ll always be able to find the
DVD
you’re looking for.
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Construction Details
Overall Dimensions:
22" x 11
1
/
8
" x 7
1
/
2
"
2
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1
a.
b.
d.
c.
Making the Case
As you can see in the drawing above,
the storage case is nothing more than
a box with a couple of dividers. The
key to making the box is creating
perfectly square openings so that the
drawers will fit the case whether it’s
sitting horizontally or vertically.
To do this, I started by cutting
the top and bottom to final size and
then headed to the router table. The
router is the best choice for making
the dadoes that the sides and
dividers of the case will fit into.
Since you’ll see the dado at the
front of the case, a straight bit will
cut a smooth, clean bottom and
3
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create a tight-fitting joint. The next
page shows you how this is done.
Stopped RabbetS.
While you’re at the
router table, you’ll want to rout a rab-
bet along the back edge of both the
top and bottom. It’s sized to accept
the back of the case (detail ‘b’). Just
be sure to start and stop the rabbet
without routing through the ends of
the top and bottom.
At this point, you can set the top
and bottom aside and work on the
case sides and dividers. What’s
important to note here is that the
sides are a
1
⁄
4
" wider. This allows for
a rabbet along the back edge to hold
the back of the case (detail ‘a’). And
both the sides and dividers are sized
to project slightly (
1
⁄
8
") past the front
edge of the top and bottom.
You’re just about ready to
assemble the case. But first you’ll
need to ease the sharp edges by
routing or sanding a small roundover
on the front edges of the sides and
dividers, as well as on the ends of
the top and bottom. This is shown in
detail ‘c’ and on page 4.
Finally, if you’re building more
than one case, detail ‘d’ and page 6
show you the steps to take to join
them together. Once that’s com-
plete, you can glue up the case and
install the hardboard back.
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
How To: RouTeR JoineRy
As I mentioned earlier, I used dadoes
to join the case sides and dividers to
the top and bottom. Since this joint
will be “front and center,” it’s very
important to cut perfectly smooth,
flat, and chipout-free dadoes. To do
this, I used my router table and a
1
⁄
2
"
straight bit, as in the photo at right.
Routing the dadoeS.
The key to mak-
ing the drawer compartments of the
case identical in size is cutting evenly
spaced and matched dadoes in both
the top and bottom.
All it takes is a couple of simple
steps, like you see in Fig. 1 at right.
Start by routing the dadoes for the
dividers. To do this, position the fence
so it’s 7
1
⁄
4
" away from the bit. Then set
the router bit to cut
1
⁄
4
" deep.
To prevent chipout as you com-
plete the cut, use a backer board to
push the workpiece over the bit, like
you see at right. After completing the
first cut, simply rotate the workpiece
end for end and rout the dado for the
second divider. Then, repeat the pro-
cess on the bottom of the case.
The next step is to rout the dadoes
at the ends. What’s important here is
to reset the fence so that after routing
the two dadoes, the spacing between
all of them is identical. In my case, I
reset the fence
1
⁄
4
" from the bit.
Routing Stopped RabbetS.
You’ll also
need to make a couple of rabbets
to hold the back of the case. If you
look closely, you’ll notice that the
rabbets are “stopped.” That’s so they
aren’t visible on the sides of the case.
To make these cuts, you’ll want to
switch to a
1
⁄
4
" straight bit.
To match the depth of cut, you
can use one of the dadoes you just
routed as a setup gauge, as shown
in Fig. 2. I found it easiest to align
the workpiece over the bit and
then “drop” it down to begin the
cut (Fig. 3). Just be sure to stop
the cut when you reach the dado
that’s at the end of the workpiece.
Finally, rout or sand a roundover to
ease the edges (Figs. 4 and 5).
The router table and a
1
/
2
" straight bit is
all it takes to make smooth, flat-bottomed
dadoes. A simple backer board prevents
chipout at the end of the cut.
1
a.
The first step in cutting the dadoes is to set the
fence to cut the dadoes for the dividers. After
you rout one dado, flip the workpiece end for
end and make a second pass. Then you can reset
the fence to space the dadoes evenly, as shown in
detail ‘a,’ and rout the dadoes for the sides.
2
a.
3
a.
After installing a
1
⁄
4
" bit in the router, you can use
one of the dadoes you just routed as a setup gauge
for setting the depth of cut for the rabbet.
Reset the fence and rout the rabbet along the
back edge of the top and bottom. Stop the cut
when you reach the end dado (detail ’a’).
4
5
a.
After routing the dadoes and rabbets, switch to a
1
⁄ " roundover bit to soften the ends of the case
8
top, bottom, sides, and dividers.
It’s almost impossible to rout a roundover on the
small ends of each piece. So it’s best to switch to
fine sandpaper and a sanding block.
4
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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