How to Insert an Exposed Zipper.pdf

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ms.elaineous
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designs that energize the spirit
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1
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How to Insert an Exposed Zipper
MARK ZIPPER RECTANGLE:
Place two pieces of fabric RST with fusible fleece on top.
Mark zipper rectangle using template. Refer to pattern for placement.
SEW ZIPPER OPENING:
Using a 14/90 needle, stitch around the zipper-placement markings (fleece should be on
top). You’ll be sewing through the exterior fabric and the lining fabric.
Cut the inside of the rectangle as shown below. Be sure not to clip into stitches.
Cut close to the four
corners or the fabric will
be bunchy.
Pull the lining through the opening that you just cut. You will now have
two pieces of fabric that are WST.
Flip to the right side of the exterior.
You will have some of the lining peaking through the rectangle
opening. Reach underneath and adjust the lining fabric so the
right amount (about 1/8” ) is showing through the rectangle.
Lightly press the opening to flatten. Pin lining to exterior so it
doesn’t move.
If the corners of the zipper rectangle are bunchy, you may have
to go back and clip closer into the corners.
When you flip to the lining side, it may be a little wrinkly around
the ends of the zipper rectangle. That is normal!
You should now have two pieces of fabric WST.
©2009. Belinda A. Bernum—no part of this product may be reproduced in any form unless otherwise
stated. All designs, photographs, and images protected by federal copyright. Designs not to be created
for commercial sale. For personal use only. All rights reserved.
●
ms.elaineous
●
designs that energize the spirit
●
2
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SEW IN THE ZIPPER:
Switch the bobbin thread so it matches the zipper (this helps
hide the stitches). The top thread should match the top/
exterior fabric.
Place the zipper under the fabric. Use your fingers to press
down and hold the zipper. Work it into the middle of the
zipper rectangle with the zipper pull closed at one end. If you
can, move your needle to the far left.
You do not need a zipper foot for this technique ; it is,
however, easier on a machine with a needle that moves.
Sew the zipper using the
gentle pressure of your fingers
to
hold the zipper in place and to keep the fabric from shifting—
this row of stitches will be about ¾” from the middle of the
zipper teeth. See diagram (this is a picture of a machine with a
needle that does not move—note foot placement).
Start here and stitch all the
way around the zipper.
Only worry about the little bit of zipper
that is right in front of you. Sew, stop,
adjust , and continue.
Sew around zipper again by
stitching in
the ditch
between the lining fabric and the exterior fabric.
Start at the other end of the zipper (see diagram). Back
stitch to reinforce it.
Stitch in
You may have to
the ditch
open the zipper to do
this.
To stitch in the ditch, start
here and back stitch.
Clip the zipper excess (use old scissors).
Continue with pattern as directed. Need more help?
http://mselaineousteachessewing.blogspot.com/2012/02/
zippers-101-cosmetic-bags.html
©2009. Belinda A. Bernum—no part of this product may be reproduced in any form unless otherwise
stated. All designs, photographs, and images protected by federal copyright. Designs not to be created
for commercial sale. For personal use only. All rights reserved.

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