Woodsmith Magazine - Plans Now - Tall Case Clock 2.pdf

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Plans
N O W
w w w. p l a n s n o w. c o m
®
Tall Case Clock
Cherry hardwood case, brass clockworks, and a classic
clockface make this woodworking project a family
heirloom that will last for generations.
ost of the clocks I’ve built have been designed to hang
on a wall or sit on a table. But this Tall Case Clock is more
than just another timepiece — it features brass clock-
works and is an impressive piece of “furniture.” Yet, it’s surpris-
ingly easy to build.
FRAMES.
I was able to keep the construction relatively simple
by designing the case with similar components.
Much of the construction involves making frames with molded
edges. In fact, there are six frames that separate the three main
sections of the case, as well as the crown molding at the top of the
clock and the kickboard base.
EQUIPMENT
. At first glance, you might expect that you would
need a lot of tools to build a clock like this — especially with all
the molding. But I cut all the molding with a router — then stacked
it to look more detailed.
WOOD.
Its warm luster and rich tones make cherry a perfect
choice for this clock. And except for the case backs and dust
panels, it’s all cut from
3
/
4
"-thick stock.
CLOCK KIT
. As for the clockworks, I purchased a kit with a
high-quality brass clockworks (see Sources, page 12).
As you can see, the Tall Case Clock has a glass door so you can
proudly display the brass pendulum and weights (main photo).
However, if you’d prefer to use a less expensive quartz timepiece
in your clock, you could substitute a solid-cherry hardwood panel
for the glass.
FINISH.
When finishing projects with a lot of molding, I like to
use a wipe-on tung oil finish.
BRACKET.
One last little detail. Because this is a tall piece of fur-
niture, it has a high center of gravity and could be easy to tip over.
So to keep it stable, I used an L-bracket to anchor the top of the
clock to the wall.
M
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
page 1
©2003August Home Publishing
All rights reserved
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
17
1
/
2
W x 10
1
/
2
D x 74H
HEAD CASE
DOOR RAIL
Y
HEAD
CASE
DOOR
STILE
FRAME “C”
C
RIM
FRAME
U
COVE
FRAME
T
FIELD
FRAME
S
C C
SCREW BLOCK
MATERIALS LIST
x 1
3
/
4
- 60 rough
x 1
3
/
4
- 96 rough
x 2
1
/
8
- 72 rough
x 2
1
/
8
- 72 rough
x 1
3
/
4
- 12 rough
hdbd. - 2
1
/
8
rgh.
x 1
3
/
8
3
/ x 4 - 16
1
/
G
Kickboard Front (1)
4
2
3
/ x 4 - 10
H
Kickboard Sides (2)
4
I
Kickboard Splines (2)
1
/
8
x
3
/
4
- 4
J
Lower Case Front (1)
3
/
4
x 15 - 16
K
Lower Case Sides (2)
3
/
4
x 8
3
/
4
- 16 rgh.
L
Pendulum Cs. Sds. (2)
3
/
4
x 7
5
/
8
- 31
1
/
2
1
/ ply - 14
1
/ x 16
3
/
M
Lower Case Bk. (1)
4
4
4
N
Pendulum Cs. Bk. (1)
1
/
4
ply - 12
1
/
2
x 32
1
/
4
O
Lwr. Cs. Dust Pnl. (1)
1
/
4
ply - 8
1
/
4
x 13
1
/
2
P
Head Case Sides (2)
3
/
4
x 8
1
/
2
- 15
1
/
8
Q
Dial Frame Stiles (2)
3
/
4
x 1
5
/
8
- 15
1
/
8
3
/ x 2
7
/ - 10
1
/
R
Dial Frame Rails (2)
4
16
4
3
/ x 1
1
/ - 40 rgh.
S
Field Frame (1)
4
4
3
/ x 1
3
/ - 42 rgh.
T
Cove Frame (1)
4
4
3
/ x 2 - 44 rgh.
U
Rim Frame (1)
4
V
Pen. Cs. Door Stiles (2)
3
/
4
x 2
1
/
4
- 31
3
/
8
W
Hd. Cs. Door Stiles (2)
3
/
4
x 2
1
/
4
- 15
X
Pen. Cs. Door Rails (2)
3
/
4
x 2
1
/
4
- 8
3
/
4
Y
Hd. Cs. Door Rails (2)
3
/
4
x 2
1
/
4
- 10
1
/
2
1
/ x
1
/ - 130 rough
Z
Window Stop
4
4
3
/ x 2
3
/ - 13
1
/
AA
Seatboard (1)
4
4
2
BB
Seatbd. Supports (2)
3
/
4
x 5
1
/
2
- 4
3
/
4
3
/ x 3 - 5
1
/
CC
Screw Blocks (2)
4
2
3
/ x 13
1
/ - 15
1
/
DD
Chime Board (1)
4
2
8
1
/ ply - 8
3
/ x 14
EE
Top Dust Panel (1)
4
4
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(42) No. 8 x 1
1
/
2
" Fh woodscrews
(20) No. 8 x 1
1
/
4
" Fh woodscrews
(1) No. 8 x 1" Fh woodscrew
(28) No. 6 x
1
/
2
" Fh woodscrews
(30)
1
/
2
" brads
(2 pr.) 2" x 1
5
/
8
" brass spun tip butt hinges
w/ screws
(2)
5
/
8
"-dia. brass knobs
(2) Magnetic door catches w/ screw plates
(1) Brass 8-day chiming clock movement
(1) Standard pendulum w/ bob
(1 set) Weight fillings
(1 set) Black clock hands
(1) 11" x 11" clock face dial
(1 pc.) 19-gauge wire (14" long )
(1) 11
1
/
4
" x 11
1
/
4
" single-strength glass
(1) 9
1
/
2
" x 27
5
/
8
" single-strength glass
(1) 1
1
/
2
" x 1
1
/
2
" L-bracket
WOOD
A
Frame “A” (1)
B
Frame “B” (2)
C
Frame “C” (1)
D
Frame “D” Ft./Sd. (2)
E
Frame “D” Backs (2)
F
Molding Splines (20)
3
/
4
3
/
4
3
/
4
3
/
4
3
/
4
1
/
4
DIAL FRAME
R
RAIL
HINGE
DIAL
FRAME
STILE
Q
DD
CHIME
BOARD
P
HEAD
CASE
SIDE
EE
TOP
DUST
PANEL
W
MAGNETIC
CATCH
AA
SEAT-
BOARD
WINDOW Z
STOP
D
FRAME “D”
FRONT
B
FRAME “B”
BB
SEATBOARD
SUPPORT
HINGE
N
PENDULUM
CASE BACK
DOOR
PULL
L
PENDULUM
CASE SIDE
PENDULUM
CASE DOOR
STILE
V
PENDULUM
CASE DOOR
RAIL
X
FRAME “B”
B
D
FRAME “D”
FRONT
M
LOWER
CASE
BACK
J
LOWER
CASE
FRONT
K
LOWER
CASE
SIDE
E
FRAME “D”
BACK
LOWER CASE
DUST PANEL
O
KICKBOARD
G
FRONT
FRAME “A”
A
KICKBOARD
SIDE
H
CUTTING DIAGRAM
ALSO NEED:
SCRAP
!/4
" HARDBOARD FOR PART F
AND ONE 48" x 48" SHEET OF
!/4
" PLYWOOD
FOR PARTS M, N, O, AND EE
#/4
x 4
!/2
- 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)
A
W
W
#/4
x 4
!/2
- 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)
T
B
#/4
x 5
!/2
- 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
D
D
#/4
x 5
!/2
- 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
Y
Y
B
G
H
H
K
K
K
K
Q
L
L
CC
C
C
E
#/4
x 4
!/2
- 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)
L
#/4
x 4
!/2
- 96 (3 Bd. Ft.)
L
#/4
x 6 - 96 (4 Bd. Ft.)
S
U
Z
E
R
R
BB BB
P
P
P
P
#/4
x 5
!/2
- 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
J
J
J
V
V
X
X
DD
DD
DD
AA
CC
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
page 2
©2003August Home Publishing
All rights reserved
FRAME MOLDINGS
What makes this clock an heirloom piece
of furniture, and not simply a stack of
frames and case sides? The exact fit
between all of the parts. To achieve this fit,
the solid-wood case sides must be per-
fectly flat and the frames must be square.
The clock has four distinct frames that
separate the clock’s sections. The five sec-
tions are the kickboard, lower case, pen-
dulum case, head case, and crown molding
(Fig. 1).
The frames are used to orient
and align the cases. At the bottom of the
clock is the kickboard frame “A.” Frame
“B” is at the top and bottom of the pen-
dulum case. At the top of the head case,
separating the head case from the crown
molding, is frame “C.” Lastly, frame “D” is
located at both the bottom of the head
case and the top of the lower case.
FRONTS.
The critical dimension on
FRAME DESIGN
Frames for casework are typically joined
in two ways. If the frame is mostly deco-
rative, it’s joined with 45° miters at all four
corners. Structural frames, on the other
hand, like the ones you find in a well-built
chest of drawers, are usually made with
mortise and tenon joints.
For the six frames on this clock, I actu-
ally borrowed from each of these designs
(Figs. 2 and 3).
I wanted to hide the end
grain on the front corners of the frames,
so I decided to use miter joints.
Since the visible edges of the frames
have routed profiles on them, and I wanted
this profile to extend all the way to the
back edges of the frames, I used butt joints
on the back corners.
STRONG FRAME.
And since the frames
lie flat and are screwed to the main sec-
tions of the case, there’s not much force
pulling apart the mitered front corners.
But the backs of the frames aren’t attached
to any other part of the case. So here I
strengthened the butt joint with a mortise
and a loose tenon. (You could use a regular
mortise and tenon.)
1
NOTE:
SEE TEXT
FOR DETAILS OF
BUILDING FRAMES
CROWN
MOLDING
FRAME “C”
HEAD
CASE
FRAME “D”
FRAME “B”
these frames is the length of the front
piece. As you build each frame, start by
cutting 45° miters on the front piece so
the long-point to long-point measurement
equals the dimensions given in the draw-
ings on the next page.
SIDES.
Next cut a miter on one end of
each side piece. Then trim each of these
pieces to length with a square cut across
the back end.
BACKS.
Now cut the back of the frame
to finished width and length. The length
of these back pieces should equal the
short-point to short-point distance between
the miters on the front pieces. (They will
have to be 1
1
/
2
" longer if you use a mortise
and tenon joint.)
MORTISE AND FLOATING SPLINES.
To
join the frame backs to the sides, I cut
1
/
4
"-
wide mortises using a straight bit in a
table-mounted router.
After cutting the mortises to size, cut
the molding splines (F)
(Fig. 2).
I used
1
/ " hardboard for these pieces and I
4
rounded over the edges of the splines to
fit the mortises.
ASSEMBLING THE FRAMES
To keep each frame square, flat, and flush
across its joints, I clamped the frame, one
section at a time, to a piece of plywood
with square corners
(Fig. 3).
To do this, begin by gluing one of the
side pieces to the front piece. Next, glue
the back to this front and side assembly.
Then add the last side piece.
To clamp the frame in place, I put one
C-clamp on either side of the miter joints,
then I placed a bar clamp to hold the back
in place
(Fig. 3).
I also put waxed paper
under each joint so the frames wouldn’t be
glued to the plywood.
ROUT EDGES.
When the glue has dried
and the frame is complete, rout the deco-
rative profile on the front edges. (Refer to
the procedures shown on the next page for
routing these profiles.) Do not rout any
of the frame backs.
SQUARE UP
FRAMES ON PIECE
OF PLYWOOD WITH
SQUARE CORNERS
PENDULUM
CASE
NOTE:
PENDULUM
CASE DOOR
REMOVED FOR
CLARITY
FRAME “B”
FRAME “D”
FRAME PARTS
All six frames are built the same way. I
found it most efficient to build them all at
once, rather than one at a time as I needed
them for the clock.
I cut the four sections needed for each
frame to exact size before assembly.
Note:
Refer to
Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7
on
the next page for the exact measurements
of each frame.
LOWER
CASE
FRAME “A”
KICKBOARD
2
LENGTH OF
MORTISE
VARIES BY
FRAME
!/4
!/4
MOLDING
SPLINE
F
3
!/4"
-WIDE MORTISE
#/4"
DEEP CENTERED
ON THICKNESS
OF STOCK
1#/8
!/4
CUT TO WIDTH,
THEN ROUND OVER
EDGES TO
FIT MORTISES
GLUE AND
CLAMP
ONE SECTION
AT A TIME
WAXED PAPER
FOR EXCESS GLUE
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
page 3
©2003August Home Publishing
All rights reserved
FRAME “A”
Frame “A” separates the kickboard from
the lower case
(Fig. 1).
To rout the profile on the front and
sides of the frame, first use a
1
/
2
" cove bit
(Fig. 4a).
It’s routed in several passes until
there’s a
1
/
4
"-thick shoulder along the out-
side of the frame.
Complete the profile by forming a
1
/
8
"-
deep rabbet along the lower outside edge.
I used a
3
/
4
" straight bit and left a
1
/
8
"-thick
shoulder
(Fig. 4b).
Drill seven countersunk shank holes on
the rabbeted side of the frame
(Fig. 4).
4
1!/4
TOP VIEW FRAME “A”
(MAKE ONE)
12#/4
A
1#/4
1#/4
a.
LEAVE
!/4
"
SHOULDER
A
ROUTER
TABLE
FENCE
END VIEW
#/4
A
!/2"
COVE BIT
#/16"SHANK
HOLE WITH
COUNTER-
SINK
A
!/2"
COVE
!/8
%/8
9&/8
b.
!/8
" x
%/8
"
RABBET
A
1#/4
A
LEAVE
!/8
"
SHOULDER
2!/4
2!/4
C
L
16!/4
2!/4
#/4"
STRAIGHT BIT
FRAME “B”
You will need two of these frames — one
for the top of the pendulum case, and one
for the bottom of the pendulum case.
Shape the molding for frame “B” by
routing the
1
/
2
" cove in several passes until
there’s a
1
/
8
"-thick shoulder on the bottom
edge
(Fig. 5a).
Next rout a
1
/
8
" deep,
1
/
8
"-wide decora-
tive rabbet above the cove
(Fig. 5b).
Finally, soften the upper inside edge with
a
1
/
4
" roundover bit
(Fig. 5).
Then, drill just four counterbored
shank holes
(Fig. 5).
5
1
TOP VIEW FRAME “B”
(MAKE TWO)
11!/4
B
1#/4
1#/4
a.
LEAVE
!/8
"
SHOULDER
B
END
VIEW
B
!/8
%/8
#/4
1#/4
!/2"
COVE BIT
!/8
9!/8
B
b.
!/8
" x
!/8
"
RABBET
B
2!/4
B
14#/4
ROUND OVER INSIDE EDGES WITH
!/4
" ROUNDOVER BIT
!/2"
STRAIGHT BIT
FRAME “C”
Frame “C” gets attached to the top of the
head case. It separates the head case from
the crown molding.
The “bullnose” profile is routed in two
stages. First form a profile around the
upper outside edge of the frame using a
1
/ " roundover bit
(Fig. 6a).
2
Second, complete the bullnose using a
1
/ " roundover bit on the lower edge
(Fig.
4
6b).
Rout both roundovers to the full depth
of cut of each bit
6
1
TOP VIEW FRAME “C”
(MAKE ONE)
11#/4
C
2!/8
2!/8
a.
C
C
#/16"
COUNTER-
SUNK
SHANK
HOLE
2!/8
1!/4
END
VIEW
!/2"
ROUNDOVER BIT
C
#/4
9#/4
b.
C
3
C
16
!/4"
ROUNDOVER BIT
FRAME “D”
The front and sides of frame “D” also have
a bullnose profile
(Fig. 7a).
One of these frames is attached to the
top of the lower case, and the other is
turned over and attached to the bottom
of the head case
(Fig. 1).
Finally, you’ll need to drill the fourteen
countersunk holes on one of the frame
“D” assemblies
(Fig. 7a).
For the other
frame “D” assembly, you’ll drill eight holes,
but they’re only on the side pieces — omit-
ting the six shank holes on the front piece
(Fig. 7).
7
1
TOP VIEW FRAME “D”
(MAKE TWO)
11!/2
E
FRAME “D” BACK
2!/8
1%/8
a.
END VIEW
FIRST:
ROUT
!/2
"
ROUNDOVER
#/16"
COUNTERSUNK
SHANK HOLES
1!/4
!/2
#/4
2!/8
D
NOTE:
BACK PIECE
IS NARROWER
THAN FRONT
AND SIDE PIECES
D
9%/8
2!/2
2!/2
D
SECOND:
ROUT
!/4
"
ROUNDOVER
NOTE:
OMIT SCREW HOLES ON FRONT PIECE
OF FRAME FOR BOTTOM OF HEAD CASE
2!/2
15#/4
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
page 4
©2003August Home Publishing
All rights reserved
8
CENTER AND GLUE
FRAME TO KICKBOARD
FRAME “A”
9
!/8"
KERF
11
FRAME “D”
CUT SPLINE
TO FIT
#/8
I
KICKBOARD
SPLINE
8#/4
NOTE:
BACK OF
CASE IS
FLUSH
WITH
FRAME “A”
AND
FRAME “D”
NOTE:
BACK OF FRAME
IS FLUSH WITH
KICKBOARD
4
!/4
10
FRAME “A”
!/8"
INSET
ON FRONT
AND SIDES
LOWER CASE
FRONT
J
LOWER
CASE
SIDE
K
16
CHAMFER FRONT
CORNERS ONLY
KICKBOARD
H
16!/2
10
15
G
KICKBOARD
FRONT
H
KICKBOARD
SIDE
GLUE FRAME “A”
DIRECTLY TO TOP
OF KICKBOARD
FRAME “A”
KICKBOARD
After making all six frames I began work
on the kickboard. The kickboard con-
sists of a front and two sides. Start by rip-
ping all three pieces to width (4")
(Fig.
8).
MITERS.
Now, miter both ends of the
kickboard front (G) so it’s
1
/
4
" longer
than the front of frame “A” (16
1
/
2
" from
long point to long point). Then miter the
fronts of both kickboard sides (H), and
cut off the backs so they’re
1
/
8
" longer
than the sides of frame “A” (10")
(Fig. 8).
KERF AND SPLINE.
Next, cut a kerf
along the mitered edges of each piece,
and cut hardwood splines (I) to fit the
kerfs
(Fig. 9).
Then glue the splines in
place and clamp the unit square.
ATTACH FRAME.
To complete the kick-
board, center frame “A” on top of the
kickboard and glue it in place
(Fig. 10).
cut a tongue and groove joint along the
front edges of each front and side panel
(Fig. 12).
ASSEMBLE CASE.
Now the side panels
can be cut to final width (8
3
/
4
")
(Fig. 11).
Then spread glue inside each groove,
and slide the tongued side panels into
the grooved front panel. Clamp the case
with pipe clamps until the glue dries.
CHAMFER EDGES.
After the glue dries,
rout a decorative chamfer along the out-
side edges of the front piece
(Fig. 14).
Stop the chamfers 2" from the top and
bottom of the case.
ATTACH UPPER FRAME.
Now screw a
“D” frame (the one with 14 shank holes)
onto the top of the case assembly,
centering the frame across the sides.
This should result in a
3
/
8
" overhang
around the front and sides of the lower
case
(Fig. 13).
The frame should be flush
at the back edge of the lower case.
INSTALL ONTO KICKBOARD.
Finally,
screw this entire sub-assembly to the top
of frame “A” on the kickboard
(Fig. 13).
PENDULUM CASE
The pendulum case consists of two
tall sides held in place between a pair
of “B” frames
(Fig. 15).
(A door is
added later.)
12
!/4"-LONG
TONGUE
#/4
#/4
LOWER
CASE
SIDE
K
13
FRAME “D”
%/16
#/8"
OVERHANG
CHAMFER
#/16
" DEEP
SEE FIG. 14
LOWER CASE
2
LOWER CASE
Now begin work on the lower case. Start
by edge-gluing boards for the front (J)
and side panels (K)
(Fig. 11).
These panels will stand on the
14
kickboard frame. Cut all the
panels to final length (16"),
then cut the front panel to
final width (15") so it’s inset
1
/ " from the coved top edge
8
2
on frame “A”
(Fig. 13).
The lower case side panels
attach flush with the back of
frame “A.” And before cutting
the pieces to width, you can
J
LOWER
CASE FRONT
#8 x 1
!/2"
Fh
WOODSCREW
!/8
!/8"
INSET
#8 x 1
!/2"
Fh
WOODSCREW
a.
NOTE:
STOP CHAMFER 2"
IN FROM BOTH ENDS
#/16
FRAME “A”
CHAMFER
BIT
KICKBOARD
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
page 5
©2003August Home Publishing
All rights reserved

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