Threads Magazine_26.pdf

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Buttonholes

Dec.

Knitting Flowers

Uothes

by Koos

1989/Jan.19 0 No. 26

$4.50

earning to use a knitting machine

can put anyone in a tight spot.

Unless, of course, you have

the new Passap Electronic.

This remarkable machine has

the sophistication on the inside (with

a computer that literally spells out

everything you need to do) and the

sleek European look of a Passap on

the outside.

In fact, all you have to know is

how to get it out of the box. Every

thing else-including shaping-is

figured out by the computer. And

within half an hour of unpacking it

you'll be enjoying knitting from over

pattern possibilities.

The new Passap Electronic also

lets you do things that most machines

can't. Like superimposing, which

allows you to put patterns on top of

each other. Or enlarging patterns,

by making them up to

times their

original length or width.

Yet even with all this high

tech stuff on board, Passap's Swiss

designers didn't leave out the sim

plicity which has kept Passap the

20, 0

9 Pas ap-USA 271West2950South

S ltLakeCity,Utah841

PASSAH

standard in the industry. There are

still no weights. And a t wo-color

changer is standard.

So come try the new Passap

Electronic at your Pas sap dealer.

For the one nearest you, call toll

free

You'll see

how easy it is to get into a Pas sap,

yourself.

1-800-PAS-KNIT.

December 1989/January 1990

Number 26

van den

and techn

are the tnulemark ifalrric his work

Akker. See Jor Koos

the

C01JeI�½

ojdesigner

iques.

MuU

rme

nts

p. 28

(Photo by N

ancy Ney)

4 Letters:

Pat

12 Tips:

tern

making, dress forms, hanging textiles

8 Questions:

Testing fabric content, sewing-machine attachments

end

ing pa

ttern

s, winding yarn, interfacing sheers, sewing snaps

Editor

20 Notes:

Museum news, abroad, sewing news, organizations, people

76 Shows:

Layers of Imagination

80 Supplies:

Fall

Books:

78 Calendar:

Exhibits, tours, confe

Art

Betsy Levine

Director

Glee Barre

Associate Editors

David Page Coffin

Alice Korach

Amy Yanagi

Copy/Production Editor

Geraldine Von Maluski

Assistant

Mary Smith

Editorial Secretary

Nancy Garbrecht

Contributing Editors

Robbie Fanning

Susan Guaglittmi

Lila Markrich

Art

Director

48 Swedish Mitten Pattern

Publisher

Jan Wahlin

dmin

istrative Secretary

Debra Engelberger

Marketing/Circulation Assistant

Claudia Allen

Public Relations Manager

Donna Pierpont

Marketing Manager

Roy Swanson

National ACCOlUlts Managers

Cheryl Clark

Vivian Do

Carol Herulerson

rma

Advertising Coordinator

Clark

Advertising Secretary

Margaret Capellaro

Trade Sales Representatives

Judy Doty

Marilyn Goachee

ncy

Fax:

Postmaster:

Tel.: (800) 243-7252

(203) 426-3434

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Newtown.magaz

06470.

ein

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u-oods 17n"OOds

03) 171.

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, yr.

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to cr

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T/u,,([ds

(ISSN

Tel.

100

akin

44 A

All

33 M

1989

renc

es, workshops, competitions

yarns

book for every interest

98 Humor:

Passion at loose

end

28 Koos, the Master of Collage

g a Koos

by David Page Coffin

Inspired solutions to machine-appliqued edges

by Diane Hendry

by Jann Jasper

34 Copy the Clothes You Love

Pants are an easy introduction

39 Quilts Celebrate the Human Sphit

The

by Nonna Bradley Allen

pioneer experience is captured in stitched fragments

Swedish Two-Strand

Dec

Kni

tting

by Linda D. Y. Sokalski

o'ra

tive double-thick fabric

fro both ends of the ball

by Linda D. Y. Sokalski

Guagliumi

Knotted Thread

by S

usan

Bead stringing revealed

by Sa

rah

Douglas

50 Smocking Meets the Flat Pattern

Warm Quilt in a Weekend

Here's

How to shape fabric into clothing with the pleater

how

AmTs$ Yanagi

to make the top part of a traditional Japanese bed

by Robbie

60 Beating the Buttonhole Blues

How to get the best

fro your machine

by Deborah Abbott

Fannin

Knit One, Sew One

Combine wovens and knits in a single garment

by Julie Cherry

66 Finishing Combined Wovens and Knits

by Lilo Markrich

68 Hand-Painted Charts

72 Knit Flowers

Choice cross-stitch ftorals from a collector's hoard

by Mary Rowe

Converting needlework graphs to a knitter's grid

Her Buttons

is published bimonthly. Oct.. Dec., Feb., Apr., June, and Aug., by The Taunton Press, Inc.,

S. Main St.

Second-class postage is paid at

and additional mailing offices. Cop)'light

by The

Send address changes to

Threads

Magazine, 'rbe Taunton Press, 63 South Main St.,

NeTh

wto

rewn

ads

, cr

06470, $22, 1

yr.;

$38, 2

yr.;

$55, 3

yr.

631989 .

$4.50; departm $5.50.

EditOlial, Adve

1130

.•

44870.

P.O.

06470.

Box

355, Newtown, CT

Letters

Congratulations to Rosemary Ingham

for a well-written article on flat-pattern

design

(Threads,

No. 25, p. 62). At the

top of my book list would be Helen

Joseph Armstrong's

Patternmaking jor

Fashion Design

(Harper & Row, 1987) . It

offers excellent drawings and

instructions for many design techniques

that can be easily understood by the

novice patternmaker. I also recommend

the 12-in. x I-in. C-Thru ruler, which is

sufficiently flexible to measure around

almost any pattern CUlve.

-Joyce Baldwin, Cullowhee, NC

For those of you trying to locate

The

Pattern Development Handbook

(p. 66 of

my article) , contact me at 310 Hedge St.,

Charlottesville, VA 22901; (804) 293-9947.

-Rosemary Ingham

Patternmaki advice

'Yl{}

TeUus

your sewi'Yl{}

I've often longed to make a buckskin

dress, so I was delighted with Donna

Steinberg's article

(Threads,

No. 24, p. 62).

usually pursue more down-to-earth

fiber arts, but your magaZine stretches my

imagination and creative spirit.

-Jamie Gagan, Santa Fe,

smooth. It sits atop an ordinary wooden

barstool tllat's fitted with a flange that

holds the form securely.

-Ingrid Morris, Hemphill, TX

You can also get a paper-tape dress-

form kit from Angelina di Bello, Box 446,

Station H, Montreal, Canada H3G 2Ll.

You can buy the instruction book

separately for $10 and the rest of the

kit later for $ 18.95. My advice is to work

from the hip area up. Leave the neck/bust

area until last, as it's too confining. Use

a yardstick to mark the finished edge, and

note this measurement so you can

make the stand the correct height.

-Shirley Hastings, Kamloops, BC, Ca

Banishi'Yl{}

The illustration for the basketweave

stitch

cause problems if done as

shown in

Threads,

No. 24, p. 41, on

mono canvas. The descending row should

go over the vertical threads; the

ascending row, over tlle horizontal threads.

-Lois E. Ren

frow, Grand Junction, CO

will

bias

Hangi'Yl{},

I'm

meat-and-potatoes sewing

machines: no frills, no bells and whistles,

j ust great, straightforward sewing. If you've

bought such a machine in the last five

years, write to me in care of

Threads

(address, p. 6) , giving the brand, model,

and price and explaining why you like it.

-Robbie Fanning

abmding

research

's use

mac

hine

Basketweave

stitch for

mono canvas

Cus

Wants

I feel strongly that you're overlooking

two important areas for the home

sewer/designer: patternmaking theory

and adapting designs for children and the

pregnant woman.

-Thyva Cooper Williams, Missoula, MT

moms'

am!

kids' hes

clot

accountant;

I protest Jean Huckeby's narrow vision

of a "useful article"

(Threads,

No. 25, p. 4) .

As a fiber artist and student of Native

American arts and ethnography, I found

the articles on the buckskin dresses,

Navajo weaving, and Chilkat dancing

blankets very useful and informative.

Who can tell what may be learned from

an article about a craft you don't do

that can be applied to one you do?

-Susan Gazell, Lebanon, TX

What

UNTO

producer.

ine

Cass

idy.

ful

to yOU?

I enjoyed reading about the two

methods of making dress forms

( Threads,

No. 24, p. 34) and would like to pass on

a third method. I begin with two boxes of

surgical plaster and several yards of

muslin, which I tear into strips. I wrap

the plastiC and apply the strips as you

describe on p. 39. After marking the form

so it can be realigned later, I cut it off

at the shoulders and sides, lay the halves

on a table, and remove as much plastic

as possible. I fill crevices with plaster,

sand the inside smooth, and coat it

with three layers of polyurethane. Then I

layer the inside with enough plaster

strips to create a second form inside the

first. When that's dry and I 've

transferred alignment markings, I pull off

the outside shell, trim the edges of the

new cast, and reinforce the form from the

inside with strips of cotton toweling

dipped into plaster.

cover the arm and

neck holes on the outside ,vith a thin

layer of muslin and reinforce them inside

with toweling. I fill cracks on the

outside with plaster and sand the form

tom-d ternat

ress-f

onn

ive

As a textile conservator, I have

thoughts on two of your articles in

Threads

No. 24. The bead-knit bag (p. 24)

what a phenomenal undertaking. But

alas, if I were to spend a year or more of

my time, I'd use linen, ramie, or a

cotton/polyester thread. Silks, both old

and new, are deteriorating at a frightful

rate, due mainly to our environment. As

for Geoffrey Brown's article (p. 66), I

wouldn't recommend pin couching on

any but the lightest-weight textiles that

won't be hung vertically. To put hundreds

of needles into, and through, a textile is

asking for possible irreversible damage. A

woven textile can move up to an inch a

day, so a lining and support should be

worked into it.

-Nancy C. Boomhower, Girard, OH

I'd like to offer two options for hanging

textiles safely: Sew hook-and-Ioop tape to

a muslin strip, which you then sew to

the top edge of a textile; affix the opposing

strip to a stick; nail it to the wall; and

press the quilt to it. Or, sew a strip of

muslin to the top of the textile, leaving

the ends open for a rod to be inserted;

mount brackets on the wall.

- Tracy Jamar, New York,

oons

ervi'Yl{}

textiles

nada

Geo

replies:

cou

g is

an alternative to a lining with hook-and-loop

tape. Each technique has its proper

ffrey

raum

Pin chin

kOlian, Rachel Yahwak, Elaine Yamin.lJooksfVideos:John Kelsey,

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ducer/director; James Hall, assoo. producer; Thomas Menan:l, asst.

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Th Magazine

reads

)

iscover

the Wool and Wonders of Scotland

with Rowan

Special

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Sp ring

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Autumn

1990

arme

o uniJerdtaniJ ScotlaniJ'oJ nwgniju:ell/: textile heritage i.J to turn the paged of hi.Jtory. From the earliedt tartalloJ am) woollen

ntoJ to traiJitwnai knitwear aniJ woniJerful tweeiJJ, each item telloJ a .!tory aniJ each .!tory paintoJ a vibrant picture of life ill

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plenty of opportunity for leisure, relaxation and

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1--------

PleaJe "end me detail" ofRowan '"SeouubHeritageTOUr<!

Name

Address

_______

Zip/Postcode

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