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82
WARSAW
Warsaw
Warsaw
Take a stroll through Warsaw’s pristine Old Town and Royal Castle and you’d think the city
had enjoyed a comfortable existence the past 200 years. But at the end of WWII they, and
nearly the entire metropolis, lay in rubble and ruin. The fact that Varsovians picked themselves
up and rebuilt almost everything is reason enough to pay the country’s capital a visit.
Warsaw’s unquenchable energy not only extends to construction. Today it is a thriving,
dynamic and progressive city, the epitome of a Polish nation firmly fixed on the future. Its
bar, clubbing and music scene is unmatched in the country, and its yearly calendar is filled
with theatre productions, operas and art-house film premieres. If culture is your thing, then
Warsaw is your place.
The city’s museums are often testament to its terrible past; many, like the Warsaw Rising
Museum, retell the devastation WWII wrought. But there are more light-hearted gems too,
like the picture-perfect palaces at
Łazienki
and Wilanów. Shoppers will max out credit cards
on handmade products, and diners can satisfy their hunger with quality Polish cuisine and
an ever-increasing array of food from around the world.
True, Warsaw is an acquired taste, and the first impressions probably won’t appeal –
stepping off the train or airport bus at Warszawa Centralna train station and staring at the
drab blocks lining Al Jerozolimskie may tempt you to hop straight back on. But the vibe
and drive of Poland’s greatest city is infectious, and if you give it a little of your time, you’ll
be richly rewarded.
HIGHLIGHTS
Taking in Warsaw and beyond from the top
of the
Palace of Culture & Science
(p97)
Listening to first-hand accounts of WWII at
the
Warsaw Rising Museum
(p99)
Spending your hard-earned cash on
hand-
made products
(p115)
Marvelling at the renovation work in the
Old
Town
(p91)
Taking in the regal splendour of the
Royal
Castle
(p87)
Tapping into the capital’s
nightlife
(p112),
whether it be bar hopping, clubbing, live
jazz or highbrow entertainment
Admiring Warsaw’s palaces at
Łazienki
Park
(p101) and
Wilanów
(p101)
POPULATION: 1.7 MILLION
AREA: 495 SQ KM
Warsaw Rising
Museum
Old Town
Royal Castle
Palace of
Culture & Science
÷azienki
Park
Wilanów
lonelyplanet.com
WARSAW •• History
83
WARSAW
WARSAW IN…
One Day
What better place to start a tour of Warsaw than the
Royal Castle
(p87), a former Mazovian
stronghold. Spend the rest of the morning exploring the back streets of the
Old Town
(p91),
then head to the
New Town
(p92) for a spot of lunch. Let the food digest while wandering
through the
Historical Museum of Warsaw
(p91) before crossing town to the
Warsaw Rising
Museum
(p99). Wait until late afternoon to take in the view from the top of the
Palace of
Culture & Science
(p97), then round the day off with dinner at one of many restaurants in and
around
ul Nowy
Świat
(p96).
Two Days
Begin with a wander down
ul Krakowskie Prezedmieście
(p96) and
ul Nowy
Świat
(p96), the
upper section of the Royal Way. Stop for breakfast en route before spending a few hours exploring
the cultural gems of the
National Museum
(p100). Lunch south of
Al Jerozolimskie
(p99), then
pass the early afternoon in the beautiful
Łazienki
Park
(p101). With the rest of the afternoon,
explore Warsaw’s
markets
(p115) or
handcraft stores
(p115) and end the two days with dinner
and drinks, and perhaps a jazz concert in
Akwarium Jazzarium
(p113).
HISTORY
Warsaw’s history has more ups and downs
than a jejunum. But like the very essence of
the Polish character, it has managed to re-
turn from the brink of destruction time and
time again.
The first semblance of a town only sprang
up around the beginning of the 14th century
when the dukes of Mazovia built a stronghold
on the site of the present Royal Castle. In
1413 the dukes chose Warsaw as their seat of
power, and things went swimmingly for over
100 years until, in 1526, the last duke died
without an heir. The burgeoning town – and
the whole of Mazovia – fell under direct rule
of the king in Kraków and was incorporated
into royal territory.
Warsaw’s fortunes took a turn for the better
after the unification of Poland and Lithuania
in 1569, when the Sejm (the lower house of
parliament) voted to make Warsaw the seat
of its debates, because of its central position.
The ultimate ennoblement came in 1596 when
King Zygmunt III Waza decided to move his
capital from Kraków to Warsaw.
The Swedish invasion from 1655 to 1660
was not kind to Warsaw, but it swiftly recov-
ered and continued to develop. Paradoxically,
the 18th century – a period of catastrophic
decline for the Polish state – witnessed
Warsaw’s greatest prosperity. A wealth of
palaces and churches was erected, and cultural
and artistic life flourished, particularly during
the reign of the last Polish king, Stanisław
August Poniatowski.
In 1795 the city’s prosperity was again shat-
tered – following the partition of Poland, its
status was reduced to that of a provincial
town. When Napoleon rolled into town in
1806 on his way to defeat in Russia, things
started looking up – the warring Frenchman
created the Duchy of Warsaw and the city
became a capital once more. The celebrations
were brief however, as in 1815 Warsaw, and
the rest of Poland, fell under Russian rule.
The Varsovians rebelled against their rulers
in 1830 and 1864, but the city remained in
Russian hands until WWI.
After WWI Warsaw was reinstated as
the capital of independent Poland and the
urban development and industrialisation
begun in the late 19th-century continued.
By 1939, the city had grown to 1.3 million, of
whom 380,000 were Jews who had tradition-
ally made up a significant part of Warsaw’s
community.
German bombs began to fall on 1 September
1939 and a week later the city was besieged;
despite brave resistance, Warsaw fell within
a month. The conquerors instantly set about
terrorising the local population with arrests,
executions and deportations, and a Jewish
Ghetto was swiftly built. The city rebelled
against the Germans twice, first in April 1943
(see boxed text, p99) and second in August
1944 (see boxed text, p37). Both rebellions
were ruthlessly crushed.
At the end of the war the city of Warsaw
lay in ruins and 800,000 people – more than
half of the prewar population – had perished.
84
WARSAW •• Orientation
lonelyplanet.com
(By comparison, the total military casualties
for US forces in WWII was 400,000, for UK
forces 326,000.) A massive rebuilding project
was undertaken soon after (see boxed text,
p93) and despite over 40 years of communist
rule the city once again regathered its strength
and is now enjoying an unprecedented period
of economic growth.
WARSAW
ORIENTATION
Warsaw is a large, sprawling city split into two
uneven halves by the Vistula (Wisła) River.
Most of the tourist action is on the western
side of the river, which is centred on the mod-
ern financial district.
The financial district’s centrepiece is the
prominent Palace of Culture & Science, which
0
0
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WARSAW
A
To Kampinos
National Park (6km)
Pow
2 km
1 mile
To Gda¬sk
(339km)
Plac
Wilsona
50
B
Wy
C
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To Bia×ystok
(188km)
1
44
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47
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See Warsaw - Old Town
& Around Map p92
29
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22
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40
PRAGA
18
6
43
To Lublin
(160km)
Obozowa
16
Ratusz
Al S
olid
Warszawa
33 31 Wschodnia
Train Station
Ta
rg
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K×opotowskiego
Warszawa Stadion
Train Station
Vi
la
stu
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48
17
MURANÓW
Dzielna
Al J
Zamoj
skiego
46
54
Wa
szy
ngt
ona
2
WOLA
Górcze
wska
See Central Warsaw Map pp88–9
Ta
m
ana
I
×a I
Paw
ka
To Kampinos (45km);
Muzeum Puszczy
Kampinoskiej (46km);
Pozna¬ (308km)
±wi‰tokrzyska
kie
lims
rozo
Wo
lska
MIRÓW
ia
Pon
st
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tow
cusk
Fran
w
To
8
To Belarusian
Embassy (1km)
a
27
wa
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ko w
Centrum
34
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Al
5
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dz
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eszy
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×
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jazd
Al U
ska
Kasprzaka
41
Warszawa
Zachodnia
Train Station
Warszawa
Centralna
Train Station
Plac
Zawiszy
kie
b
i¬s
a×u
Ch
go
Politechnika
Plac Zbawiciela
38 11 20
go
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Wary
ows
kie
Szuc
ha
3
55
Bi
tw
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Wawelska
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Kawa
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30
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kowska
45
go
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4
OCHOTA
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Gró
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Pole
Mokotowskie
42
Al Nie
7
10
Pu×awska
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we
podle
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Rac×awiska
39
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Wo×oska
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4
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Wilanowska
Sikors
Ma
nga
lia
49
ies
Sob
35
OKˆCIE
MOKOTÓW
2
kie
go
5
To Kraków
(294km)
53
51
Warsaw
Frédérick Chopin
Airport
52
25
Wi
S×u¤ewiec
lan
ow
ska
1
28
Ursynów
lonelyplanet.com
WARSAW •• Information
85
can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.
Lying to the north of this area is the celebrated
Old Town, and further north again is the New
Town. West and northwest of the financial
district is the former Jewish Ghetto.
An ancient processional route, known as
the Royal Way (Trakt Królewski) leads south
from the Old Town for 4km to
Łazienki
Park.
Along the way it changes its name from ul
Krakowskie Przedmieście to ul Nowy
Świat
and finally Al Ujazdowski. Wilanów, a royal
retreat, lies even further south, around 6km
from
Łazienki
Park.
Warszawa Centralna train station (also
known as Dworzec Centralny), which lies
southwest and in easy walking distance of
the Palace of Culture & Science, is the city’s
main train hub. Warszawa Zachodnia bus ter-
minal is 3km to its west, on Al Jerozolimskie,
Warsaw’s main east–west thoroughfare. The
international airport is on the southwestern
edge of the city.
Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) English-language publications,
including travel guides.
Atlas
(Map p84;
x
022 620 3639; Al Jana Pawła II 26;
h
10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Specialises in
maps, atlases and travel guides; the best place in town for
hiking and national park maps.
EMPiK
(www.empik.com in Polish)
ul Marszałkowska
(Map
pp88-9;
x
022 702 9402; ul Marszałkowska 116/122);
ul Nowy
Świat
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 627 0650; ul Nowy
Świat
15/17);
Złote Tarasy
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 222 0606;
ul Złota 59) Has 15 stores Warsaw-wide; stocks a wide
selection of British, German, French and US newspapers
and magazines.
Marjanna
(Map p92;
x
022 826 6271; ul Senatorska
38;
h
11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The city’s best
French-language bookshop, located in the Institut Français
Varsovie.
Traffic Club
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 692 1454; ul Bracka
25;
h
10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) Multilev-
elled and multicoloured mega store with city maps on the
1st floor and English and German fiction on the 2nd.
WARSAW
INFORMATION
Bookshops
American Bookstore
(www.americanbookstore.pl in
Polish)
Sadyba Best Mall
(Map p84;
x
022 370 3173; ul
Powsińska 31);
ul Koszykowa
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 660
5637; ul Koszykowa 55);
ul Nowy
Świat
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 827 4852; ul Nowy
Świat
61;
h
10am-7pm
INFORMATION
American Bookstore.................(see 49)
Belarus Embassy...........................
1
D5
Damian Medical Centre................
2
C5
Dutch Embassy.............................
3
C3
French Embassy............................
4
C3
German Embassy..........................
5
D2
InfoPraga......................................
6
C1
Japanese Embassy......................(see 3)
Kampio.........................................
7
A4
Latvian Embassy...........................
8
D2
Polskie Towarzystwo Schronisk
M×odzie¤owych......................
9
C3
Russian Embassy.........................
10
C4
Slovak Embassy..........................
11
C3
Tourist Information Centre.......(see 53)
Tourist Information Centre.......(see 55)
Ukrainian Embassy...................(see 11)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Belvedere Palace.........................
12
C3
Botanical Gardens.......................
13
C3
Brama Strace¬.............................
14
B1
Cytadela......................................
15
B1
Ghettos Heroes Monument........
16
B2
Jewish Cemetery........................
17
A2
Klimy Boche¬skiej.....................(see 18)
Koneser Vodka Factory...............
18
C1
÷azienki Park...............................
19
C3
Luksfera...................................(see 18)
Cultural Centres
The Centrala train station tourist office has a
full list of cultural centres in Warsaw.
British Council
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 695 5900; www
.britishcouncil.pl; Al Jerozolimskie 59)
Goethe Institut Warschau
(German Cultural Institute;
Map pp88-9;
x
022 505 9000; www.goethe
.de/warschau in German & Polish; ul Chmielna 11a)
ENTERTAINMENT
Balsam....................................
39
B4
Cinema City Sadyba..............(see 49)
Fabryka Trzciny.......................
40
C1
Harlem....................................
41
B3
Iluzjon Filmoteki
Naradowej..........................
42
C4
M25........................................
43
D1
Piekarnia.................................. B1
44
Stodo×a..................................
45
C3
Teatr Powszechny...................
46
D2
SHOPPING
Arkadia....................................
47
B1
Bazar na Kole..........................
48
A2
Gie×da Foto...........................(see 45)
Sadyba Best Mall....................
49
D4
TRANSPORT
Punkt informacji ZTM..............
50
Terminal 1...............................
51
Terminal Etiuda.......................
52
Warsaw Frédérick Chopin
Airport................................
53
Warszawa Stadion Bus
Terminal.............................
54
Warszawa Zachodnia Bus
Terminal.............................
55
Mauzoleum Walki i
M‰cze¬stwa.......................
20
C3
Monument to Mordechaj
Anielewicz.............................
21
B2
Museum of the History of
Polish Jews.........................(see 16)
Muzeum Pawilon-X...................
22
B1
Orthodox Church......................
23
C1
Pawiak Prison Museum.............
24
B2
PiPiN........................................
25
C5
Poster Museum.......................(see 28)
26
Umschlagplatz Monument......... B1
Warsaw Rising Museum...........
27
B2
Wilanów Park & Palace............
28
D5
Zoological Gardens...................
29
C1
SLEEPING
Camping 123............................
30
Hotel Hetman...........................
31
Hotel Maria...............................
32
Hotel Praski...............................
33
Hotel Premiere Classe................
34
Warsaw Apartments.................
35
A3
C1
B1
C1
B3
D5
B1
B5
B5
A5
C2
A3
EATING
Tandoor Palace.........................
36
C3
DRINKING
Ch×odna 25...............................
37
B2
Coffee Karma...........................
38
C3
86
WARSAW •• Information
lonelyplanet.com
WI-FI ACCESS
An ever-increasing number of cafés, restau-
rants and hotels offer wi-fi access for lap-
top users in central Warsaw (Map pp88–9).
Some provide the service free of charge,
while others require you to buy a network
keycard and password (usually available
from the reception or at the bar). Cards start
at around 10zł for two hours’ surfing.
There are plenty of pharmacies in Warsaw
where you can get medical advice; look or
ask for an
apteka.
There are always several
pharmacies that stay open all night; a list is
provided (in Polish) in the
Gazeta Wyborcza
newspaper (in the Supermarket section).
Apteka 21
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 825 3128; Warszawa
Centralna train station, Al Jerozolimskie 54;
h
24hr) An
all-night pharmacy at the central train station.
Damian Medical Centre
(Map p84;
x
022 566 2222;
www.damian.com.pl; ul Wałbrzyska 46;
h
7am-9pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) A reputable
private outpatient clinic with hospital facilities.
EuroDental
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 627 5888; www
.eurodental.com.pl; ul
Śniadeckich
12/16;
h
8am-8pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Private dental clinic with
multilingual staff.
LIM Medical Center
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 458 7000;
www.cm-lim.com.pl; Marriott Hotel Bldg, Al Jerozolimskie
65/79;
h
7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, 9am-6pm
Sun) Private clinic with English-speaking specialist doctors
and its own ambulance service; carries out laboratory tests
and arranges house calls.
WARSAW
Institut Français Varsovie
(French Cultural Institute;
Map p92;
x
022 505 9800; www.ifv.pl in French & Polish;
ul Senatorska 38)
Istituto Italiano di Cultura
(Italian Institute; Map
pp88-9;
x
022 628 0618; www.iic.pl in Italian; ul
Marszałkowska 72)
Internet Access
Internet cafés come and go as quickly as Polish
politicians but this lot seem fairly stable.
Casablanca
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 828 1447; ul Kra-
kowskie Przedmieście 4/6; per 10min 1.50zł;
h
9am-1am)
Eccoms Internet
(Map pp88-9; ul Warecka 1; per hr 5zł;
h
9am-11pm)
Internet Café
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 826 6062; ul Nowy
Świat
18/20; per hr 6zł;
h
9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
10pm Sat & Sun)
Simple Internet Café
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 628 3190;
ul Marszałkowska 99/101; per hr 1-4zł;
h
24hr) Warsaw’s
biggest, with 150 terminals; highest rates from 9am to
7pm, cheapest from 2am to 7am.
Verso Internet
(Map p92;
x
022 831 2854; ul Freta 17;
per hr 5zł;
h
8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-
4pm Sun) Enter off ul Koźla.
Money
Kantors
(currency-exchange offices) and
ATMs are easy to find around the city centre.
There are 24-hour
kantors
at the Warszawa
Centralna train station and either side of the
immigration counters at the airport, but ex-
change rates at these places are about 10%
lower than in the city centre. Avoid chang-
ing money in the Old Town, where rates
are shocking.
Amex
(Map pp88-9;
x
022 581 5100; ul Chłodna 51;
h
9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Cashes its own travellers cheques
as well as those of other major banks, but the rate may be
lower than Bank Pekao.
Bank Pekao
Marriott Hotel
(Map pp88-9; Al Jerozolim-
skie 65/79);
Plac Bankowy
(Map p92; Plac Bankowy 2);
ul Krakowskie Przedmieście
(Map pp88-9; ul Krakowskie
Przedmieście 1);
ul Wilcza
(Map pp88-9; ul Wilcza 70)
Cashes travellers cheques and has more than a dozen
offices in the city centre. Cash advances on Visa and
MasterCard.
Western Union
(Map pp88-9;
x
general info 022
636 5688, 0800 120 224; Bank BPH, Al Jerozolimskie 27;
h
9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Money-transfer service, with
branches at a number of locations; this is the main central
office.
Internet Resources
www.e-warsaw.pl
Official website of the city of Warsaw.
www.inyourpocket.com/city/warsaw.html
Highly
opinionated, but often amusing, coverage of the capital.
www.warsaw-life.com
Eating, sleeping, drinking and
shopping reviews.
www.warsawvoice.pl
Online version of the English-
language magazine.
Medical Services
For an ambulance, call
x
999, or
x
112 from
a mobile phone. English-speaking dispatchers
are rare, however, so you’re probably better
off phoning the following medical centres. For
nonurgent treatment, you can go to one of the
city’s many
przychodnia
(outpatient clinics).
Your hotel or your embassy (see p507) can
provide recommendations.
Post & Telephone
Main post office
(Poczta Główna; Map pp88-9;
x
022
826 0303; ul
Świętokrzyska
31/33;
h
24hr) One of over
a hundred post offices in the city. Poste restante is at

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