Stool - Shaker stepstool.pdf

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step stool
P
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Cl ass ics
S K E T C H B O O K
B Y
T H O M A S
You can
handle most
of this project
with a few
simple hand
tools. But with
a wood as
tough as oak,
it’s handy to
have power
when cutting
each piece to
size. A port-
able circular
saw will do
the job, but if
you’d prefer
increased
speed and
greater accu-
racy, start pric-
ing table saws.
Even a light-
duty benchtop
model will
make a big
difference.
K L E N C K
The
T
ools
Unlike the Shakers, you won’t have access to wood wide enough for the sides—
you’ll have to glue them up. Instead of laminating each side from random widths
of stock, rip pieces so their widths match the tread notches. This way, each
stepped side will be formed at assembly and require no shaping. While a good
glue joint is plenty strong, we added dowels to reinforce the grain over the arced
cutout. You also could use a plate joiner—either option will help keep the boards
aligned during glue-up. When the glue is dry, level any small misalignments with
a hand plane, and cut the arc with a jigsaw.
The stool is made up of two stepped side panels, three
treads and five rails. Note that the tread rails are half-
dovetails that prevent the sides from spreading. We’ve
cut the dovetails with roughly
1
/
4
-in.-deep shoulders to
resist racking (wobbling from side to side).
Quick Tip
When preparing boards to be assembled
into a panel, orient the pieces so they have a
common grain direction. This makes planing
the finished panel easier.
Bore all the screwholes in the
rails. We made the hole for
the screw shank and a
3
/
8
-in.
counterbore in one step with
a combination bit. Use these
holes as a guide when boring
the pilot holes in the stool
sides. Join the back mid rail to
the sides first, then follow with
the second tread rail to create
a rigid box. Then, add the three
remaining rails.
Apply glue to the counter-
bores and tap wooden plugs
over the screws. Be sure to
align the plug grain direction
with that of the wood.
Carefully pare the plugs
flush with a chisel.
SMOOTH
PLANE:
It trims
edges for gluing
and dresses
faces flat. A block
plane is handy
for trimming.
1-IN. CHISEL:
Essential for
fine-tuning the
joinery—just
keep it sharp.
BACKSAW:
For straight
joint cuts.
COPING SAW:
The stressfree
way to cut the
mid rail notches.
CIRCULAR
SAW:
For rough
ripping and
crosscutting.
JIGSAW:
It
shapes the arced
cutouts.
DRILL:
To bore
screwholes and
drive screws.
DOWELING JIG:
Keeps your drill
in line for dowel
joints.
CLAMPS:
Two
pipe or heavy
bar clamps are
the minimum.
Cut the rails to length and use a backsaw to make
the
1
/
4
-in.-deep dovetails. The cuts don’t have to be
identical, but they do have to be square to the stock
face. If necessary, trim them with a chisel and make
sure the inner corners are sharp and clean.
Clamp each dovetail at its place on a side panel
and scribe the mating notch with a knife. Use a
trysquare to ensure that the rail is square with the
side. After marking each angled cutline, use a marking
gauge to lay out the remaining notch line. Then, cut
the notches and test fit the rails.
A simple rounding of the front and end tread edges doesn’t require a
fancy router setup. Instead, use a plane to first bevel the edges, then
round them in a series of facets. Plane endgrain first, working toward the
middle from each side. Don’t plane straight across the tread end or you’ll
split the wood as the plane exits the cut. Then, bore the screwholes, add
the treads to the stool frame and plug the screw counterbores.
We finished our step stool with three coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish.
S AW S AV V Y
The open-ended half-dovetail notches are
easy to cut. Just saw to the waste side of the
scribed line, then rip from the end toward
the angled cut. To make the full dovetail
notch, first make both angled cuts. Then, use
a coping saw to cut just above the finished
joint line. Trim the remaining surface flat
with a chisel and test fit the rail.

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