Testing Electronic Components - Colin Mitchell.pdf
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Testing Electronic
Components
Brought to you by Colin Mitchell
This eBook shows you how to TEST COMPONENTS.
To do this you need "TEST GEAR."
The best item of Test Gear is a
MULTIMETER. It can test almost 90% of all components. And that's what we will do in this
eBook:
You cannot give this E-book away for free.
You do not have the rights to redistribute this E-book.
Copyright@ All Rights Reserved
Warning! This is a copyrighted material; no part of this guide may be
reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever, electronic, or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or transmitting by any
informational storage or retrieval system without expressed written, dated
and signed permission from the author. You cannot alter, change, or
repackage this document in any manner.
Colin Mitchell reserves the right to use the full force of the law in the
protection of his intellectual property including the contents, ideas, and
expressions contained herein. Be aware that eBay actively cooperates in
closing the account of copyright violators and assisting in the legal
pursuit of violations.
DISCLAIMER AND/OR LEGAL NOTICES
The reader is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precaution
that might be indicated by the activities herein and to avoid all potential
hazards. This E-book is for informational purposes only and the author
does not accept any responsibilities or liabilities resulting from the use of
this information. While every attempt has been made to verify the
information provided here, the author cannot assume any responsibility
for any loss, injury, errors, inaccuracies, omissions or inconvenience
sustained by anyone resulting from this information. Most of the tips and
secrets given should only be carried out by suitably qualified electronics
engineers/technicians. Please be careful as all electrical equipment is
potentially dangerous when dismantled. Any perceived slights of policy,
specific people or organizations are unintentional.
If you have any information regarding the illegal reselling or duplication
of this E-book, please report it to
colinmitchell@electronicrepairguide.com
for your reward.
CONTENTS
Analogue Multimeter
Audio Stages
Batteries
- testing
Burnt Resistor
Buying A Multimeter
Capacitors
Capacitors -
decoupling caps
Capacitors in Parallel
Cells
- batteries
Circuit Symbols
Co-Ax Cables
Colour Code (Resistor)
Coils
Continuity
Creating any value of R
Current
- measuring
Damper Diodes
Darlington Transistors
Digital Chips
Digital Multimeter
Diodes
replacing a diode
Earth Leakage Detectors
Electrolytics
FETs
Focus pots
Fuses
Germanium Diodes
Impedance
- of a stage
IC's
- also called Digital Chips
IC's
- Analogue Chips
"In-Circuit" testing
Inductors
Inductors
- measuring
Integrated Circuits
Isolation Transformer
LEDs
Logic Probe MkIIB
Logic Probe
- Simple
Logic Probe - using CD4001
Logic Probe - using CD4011
Making your own components
Measuring Resistance
Measuring Voltage
Mica Washers and Insulators
Motor
- testing
MOSFETs
Multimeters
Non-polar Capacitor
(electrolytic)
Open Circuit
"Open" Resistor
- damaged
Opto-couplers
Parallel
- resistors
Parallel and Series Capacitors
Piezo Diaphragms
Piezo Buzzers
Potentiometers
Pots
- testing
Power Diodes
Relays
Remote Controls
Resistor Colour Code
Resistor Networks
Resistors
- series
Ripple Factor
Schottky Diodes
SCRs
Short Circuit
Signal Injector
Silicon diodes
Soldering
Spark Gaps
Super Probe MkII
Surface Mount
- Packs
Surface-Mount Resistors
Surface-Mount Resistor Markings
Switches
Symbols
Testing A Circuit
Testing A Resistor
Testing Components "In-Circuit"
Transformers
Transistor Outlines
Transistors
Triacs
Unknown resistors
- testing
Using A Multimeter
Voltage Regulators
Voltages on a circuit
Yokes
Zener Diodes
4-Band Resistors
5-Band Resistors
MULTIMETERS
There are two types:
DIGITAL and ANALOGUE
A
Digital Multimeter
has a set of digits on the display and an Analogue Multimeter has a scale with a
pointer (or needle).
You really need both types to cover the number of tests needed for designing and repair-work. We will
discuss how they work, how to use them and some of the differences between them.
DIGITAL AND ANALOGUE MULTIMETERS
BUYING A MULTIMETER
There are many different types on the market.
The cost is determined by the number of ranges and also the extra features such as diode tester, buzzer
(continuity), transistor tester, high DC current and others.
Since most multimeters are reliable and accurate, buy one with the greatest number of ranges at the lowest
cost.
This article explains the difference between a cheap analogue meter, an expensive analogue meter and a
digital meter. You will then be able to work out which two meters you should buy.
Multimeters are sometimes called a "meter", a "VOM"
"multi-tester" or even "a tester" - they are all the same.
(Volts-Ohms-Milliamps or Volt Ohm Meter) or
USING A MULTIMETER
Analogue and digital multimeters have either a rotary selector switch or push buttons to select the
appropriate function and range. Some Digital Multimeter (DMMs) are auto ranging; they automatically select
the correct range of voltage, resistance, or current when doing a test. However you need to select the
function.
Before making any measurement you need to know what you are checking. If you are measuring voltage,
select the AC range (10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v) or DC range (0.5v, 2.5v, 10v, 50v, 250v, or 1000v). If you
are measuring resistance, select the Ohms range (x1, x10, x100, x1k, x10k). If you are measuring current,
select the appropriate current range DCmA 0.5mA, 50mA, 500mA. Every multimeter is different however
the photo below shows a low cost meter with the basic ranges.
The most important point to remember is this:
You must select a voltage or current range that is bigger or HIGHER than the maximum expected value, so
the needle does not swing across the scale and hit the "end stop."
If you are using a DMM (Digital Multi Meter), the meter will indicate if the voltage or current is higher than
the selected scale, by showing "OL" - this means "Overload." If you are measuring resistance such as 1M on
the x10 range the "OL" means "Open Loop" and you will need to change the range. Some meters show "1'
on the display when the measurement is higher than the display will indicate and some flash a set of digits
to show over-voltage or over-current. A "-1" indicates the leads should be reversed for a "positive reading."
If it is an AUTO RANGING meter, it will automatically produce a reading, otherwise the selector switch must
be changed to another range.
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