Tanzania Zanzibar.pdf

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Tanzania

Zanzibar

Archipelago

(Chapter)

Edition

5th Edition, June 2012

Pages

Page Range

68-116

PDF

Coverage includes:

Stone Town, Sights, Activities, Tours, Eating, Drinking,

Entertainment, Shopping, Around Zanzibar, Beaches and Pemba.

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Zanzibar Archipelago

Why Go?

Zanzibar ......................... 69

Zanzibar Town ................ 70

Around Zanzibar ............ 92

Beaches .......................... 92

Jozani Forest ................ 105

Menai Bay & Unguja

Ukuu ............................. 105

Oﬀshore Islands ........... 106

Pemba ...........................107

Chake Chake ................ 109

Southern Pemba ........... 112

Northern Pemba ........... 114

Best of Nature

Jozani Forest (p104)

Misali Island (p112)

Step oﬀ the boat or plane onto the Zanzibar Archipelago,

and you’ll be transported through the miles and the cen-

turies – to ancient Persia, to Oman’s caliphs and sultans, to

India, with its heavily laden scents.

On Zanzibar, Stone Town’s alleyways wind past Arabic-

style houses with brass-studded wooden doors. Elderly men

play

bao

(traditional board game) while women in their

ﬂ

owing

bui-bui

(black cover-alls) pause to chat. Along the

coast, local life moves to the rhythm of the tides and the

winds of the monsoon.

Across the deep waters of the Pemba channel lies hilly,

verdant Pemba, the archipelago’s seldom visited ‘other’ is-

land. Coastal mangrove swamps open onto stunning white-

sand coves, and neat farm plots cover the hillsides.

Yet, there is another side to life on the archipelago. Zan-

zibar, especially, has changed massively in recent years.

Overdevelopment is suﬀocating the coast and mass tourism

makes the archipelago’s allure ever more elusive. While the

magic remains, you’ll have to work much harder to

ﬁ

nd it.

Chumbe Island Coral Park

(p107)

Mnemba Atoll (p106)

When to Go

Zanzibar Town

°C/°F

Temp

40/104

30/86

20/68

10/50

0/32

Best of Culture

Festival of the Dhow

Countries (p79)

Rainfall

inches/mm

16/400

12/300

8/200

4/100

Mwaka Kogwa (p79)

Sauti za Busara (p79)

Eid al-Fitr (p79)

Mar-May

Expect

grey skies and

some hotels

closed, but other-

wise Zanzibar is

crowd-free.

Jul

July is cul-

ture-packed with

the Festival of

the Dhow Coun-

tries and Mwaka

Kogwa.

Jul-Aug

Peak

season brings

higher prices and

hordes of visitors.

History

The archipelago’s history stretches back at

least to the start of the

ﬁ

rst millennium,

when Bantu-speaking peoples from the

mainland ventured across the Zanzibar

and Pemba channels – perhaps in search of

bigger

ﬁ

sh and better beaches. The islands

had probably been visited at an even earlier

date by traders and sailors from Arabia. The

Periplus of the Erythraean Sea

(written for

sailors by a Greek merchant around AD 60)

documents small Arabic trading settlements

along the coast that were already well es-

tablished by the 1st century, and makes ref-

erence to the island of Menouthias, which

many historians believe to be Zanzibar.

From around the 8th century, Shirazi trad-

ers from Persia also began to make their

way to East Africa, where they established

settlements on Pemba, and probably also at

Zanzibar’s Unguja Ukuu.

Between the 12th and 15th centuries, the

archipelago came into its own, as trade links

with Arabia and the Persian Gulf blossomed.

Zanzibar became a powerful city-state, sup-

plying slaves, gold, ivory and wood to places

as distant as India and Asia, while importing

spices, glassware and textiles. With the trade

from the East also came Islam and the Ara-

bic architecture that still characterises the

archipelago today. One of the most impor-

tant archaeological remnants from this era

is the mosque at Kizimkazi (p104), whose

mihrab (prayer niche showing the direction

to Mecca) dates from the early 12th century.

The arrival of the Portuguese in the early

16th century temporarily interrupted this

golden age, as Zanzibar and then Pemba

fell under Portuguese control. Yet Portu-

guese dominance did not last long. It was

challenged

ﬁ

rst by the British, who found

Zanzibar an amenable rest stop on the long

journey to India, and then by Omani Ar-

abs, who in the mid-16th century gave the

Portuguese the routing that they no doubt

deserved. By the early 19th century Oman

had gained the upper hand on Zanzibar, and

trade on the island again

ﬂ

ourished, centred

on slaves, ivory and cloves. Caravans set out

for the interior of the mainland, and trade

reached such a high point that in the 1840s

the Sultan of Oman relocated his court here

from the Persian Gulf.

From the mid-19th century, with increas-

ing European interest in East Africa and

the end of the slave trade, Omani rule over

Zanzibar began to weaken, and in 1862 the

To Mombasa

(50km)

50 km

25 miles

Pemba

Wete

Sig

ver

A14

Tanga

Tongoni

Chan

nel

Pemb

Pangani

River

Pangani

Chake

Mkoani

Z ANZIBAR ARCHIPEL AGO

Mkwaja

Tumbatu

Mligaji

Mnemba

Zanzibar

Stone

Town

Saadani

National

Park

Zan

ziba

Waner

Riv

East Coast

Beaches

Bagamoyo

Zanzibar Archipelago

Highlights

Wander through the narrow, cobbled

streets of

Stone Town

(p70), taking in

the sights

Relax on picture-perfect, white-sand

eastern beaches

(p92) fringed by palm

trees and the turquoise sea

Discover unknown corners and

culture in green and hilly

Pemba

(p107)

Dive and snorkel

(p75) amid shoals

of colourful

ﬁ

sh around Mnemba atoll,

Misali Island or elsewhere around the

archipelago

Browse for

souvenirs

(p88) in tiny

shops fragrant with spices

Indulge in some pampering at one of

the island’s many

spas

(p75)

Step into local life at night markets

at Zanzibar Town’s

Forodhani Gardens

(p85) and in Pemba’s

Chake Chake

(p110)

Uzi

Indian

Ocean

Dar es

Salaam

ETIQUETTE ON THE

ARCHIPELAGO

Zanzibar and Pemba are conservative,

Muslim societies, and many locals take

oﬀence at scantily clad Westerners.

Women should avoid sleeveless tops

and plunging necklines, and stick with

pants, skirts or at least knee-length

shorts. For men, keep your shirt on

when wandering around town, and pref-

erably also wear pants or knee-length

shorts. During Ramadan take particular

care with dress, and show respect by

not eating or drinking in public places

during daylight hours.

proceeded comparatively smoothly. Howev-

er, little progress has been made at resolving

the underlying issues.

ZANZIBAR

POP 990,000

sultanate was formally partitioned. Zanzibar

became independent of Oman, with Omani

sultans ruling under a British protectorate.

This arrangement lasted until 10 December

1963 when Zanzibar gained its independ-

ence. Just one month later, in January 1964,

the sultans were overthrown in a bloody rev-

olution instigated by the Afro-Shirazi Party

(ASP), which then assumed power. On 12

April 1964 Abeid Karume, president of the

ASP, signed a declaration of unity with Tan-

ganyika (mainland Tanzania) and the union,

fragile from the outset, became known as

the United Republic of Tanzania.

Karume was assassinated in 1972 and

Aboud Jumbe assumed the presidency of

Zanzibar until he resigned in 1984. A suc-

cession of leaders followed, culminating in

2000 with the highly controversial election

of Aman Abeid Karume, son of the

ﬁ

rst

president.

Today the two major parties in the ar-

chipelago are the Chama Cha Mapinduzi

(CCM) and the opposition Civic United

Front (CUF), which has its stronghold on

Pemba. Tensions between the two peaked

during disputed national elections in 1995,

and now, well over a decade later, still con-

tinue to simmer.

In 1999 negotiations moderated by the

Commonwealth secretary general con-

cluded with a brokered agreement between

the CCM and CUF. However, the temporary

hiatus this created was shattered by highly

controversial elections in 2000, and ensuing

violence on Pemba in January 2001. Since

then renewed eﬀorts at dialogue between

the CCM and CUF have restored a fragile

calm, and both the 2005 and 2010 elections

The winding alleyways are still there, and

the carved doors. Forodhani Gardens still

is the place to go in the evenings, with the

setting sun illuminating the scene. The east

coast beaches are as lovely as ever. But,

Zanzibar has changed. It’s due in part to

the masses of visitors who descend on the

island during the high season. In part, it’s

due to the seemingly endless proliferation

of new hotels, most built with apparently no

thought for the surrounding community and

ecosystems. Whatever the reason, the sense

of stepping back in time, the island’s once-

legendary ability to transport the visitor

through centuries and cultures, is no longer

there. Is the magic completely gone? Prob-

ably not, although it’s certainly more diﬃ-

cult to

ﬁ

nd. But, come and see for yourself.

And, travel wisely. Not only do smart travel

choices matter, but here they could make the

diﬀerence between Zanzibar’s strangulation

or its survival.

Z ANZIBAR ARCHIPEL AGO

Z I G H T B A R TO W N

SANZI S

Zanzibar Town

Zanzibar Town, on the western side of the

island, is the heart of the archipelago, and

the

ﬁ

rst stop for most travellers. The best-

known section by far is the old Stone Town

(Mji Mkongwe),

surrounded on three sides

by the sea and bordered to the east by Creek

Rd. Directly east of Stone Town is the bus-

tling, less atmospheric section of Ng’ambo,

which you’ll pass through en route to the

beaches.

Sights

If Zanzibar Town is the archipelago’s heart,

Stone Town is its soul, with a jumble of al-

leyways where it’s easy to spend days wan-

dering around and getting lost – although

you can’t get lost for long because, sooner or

later, you’ll end up on either the seafront or

Creek Rd. Nevertheless, each twist and turn

of the narrow streets brings something new,

be it a school full of children chanting verses

from the Quran, an old mansion with over-

hanging verandahs or a coﬀee vendor with

his long-spouted pot fastened over coals,

clacking cups to attract custom. Along the

way, watch the island’s rich cultural melange

come to life: Arabic-style houses with their

recessed inner courtyards rub shoulders

with Indian-inﬂuenced buildings boasting

ornate balconies and latticework, and bus-

tling oriental bazaars alternate with street-

side vending stalls.

While the best part of Stone Town is sim-

ply letting it unfold before you, it’s worth

putting in an eﬀort to see some of its major

features.

Beit el-Ajaib (House of Wonders)

MUSEUM

(Map p80; Mizingani Rd; adult/child US$4/1;

9am-

6pm)

One of the most prominent buildings

cal headquarters of the CCM. Its enormous

doors are said to be the largest carved doors

in East Africa. Inside it houses exhibits

on the dhow culture of the Indian Ocean

(ground

ﬂ

oor) and on Swahili civilisation

and 19th-century Zanzibar (1st

ﬂ

oor). Eve-

rything is informatively labelled in English

and Swahili, and well worth visiting. Just

inside the entrance is a life-size

mtepe,

a tra-

ditional Swahili sailing vessel made without

nails, the planks held together with only co-

conut

ﬁ

bres and wooden pegs.

Z ANZIBAR ARCHIPEL AGO

Z A N Z I B A R

Beit el-Sahel (Palace Museum)

MUSEUM

(Map p80; Mizingani Rd; adult/child US$4/1;

9am-6pm)

Just north of the Beit el-Ajaib

in the old Stone Town, this elegant ediﬁce is

now home to the

Zanzibar National Muse-

um of History & Culture

. It’s also one of the

largest structures in Zanzibar. It was built in

1883 by Sultan Barghash (r 1870–88) as a

ceremonial palace. In 1896 it was the target

of a British naval bombardment, the object

of which was to force Khalid bin Barghash,

who had tried to seize the throne after the

death of Sultan Hamad (r 1893–96), to abdi-

cate in favour of a British nominee. After it

was rebuilt, Sultan Hamoud (r 1902–11) used

the upper

ﬂ

oor as a residential palace until

his death. Later it became the local politi-

is this palace, which served as the sultan’s

residence until 1964, when the dynasty was

overthrown. Now it is a museum devoted to

the era of the Zanzibar sultanate.

The ground

ﬂ

oor displays details of the

formative period of the sultanate from 1828

to 1870, during which commercial treaties

were signed between Zanzibar and the USA

(1833), Britain (1839), France (1844) and the

Hanseatic Republics (1859). There is also

memorabilia of Princess Salme, a Zanzibari

princess who eloped with a German to Eu-

rope and later wrote an autobiography. The

exhibits on the 2nd

ﬂ

oor focus on the period

PAPASI

In Zanzibar Town you will undoubtedly come into contact with street touts. In Swahili

they’re known as

papasi

(ticks). They are not registered as guides with the Zanzibar

Tourist Corporation (ZTC), although they may carry (false) identiﬁcation cards, and while

a few can be helpful, others can be aggressive and irritating. The main places that you’ll

encounter them are at the ferry exit in Zanzibar Town and in the Shangani area around

Tembo House Hotel and the post oﬃce. Many of the more annoying ones are involved

with Zanzibar’s drug trade and are desperate for money for their next

ﬁ

x, which means

you’re just asking for trouble if you arrange anything with them.

If you decide to use the services of an unlicensed tout, tell them where you want to

go or what you are looking for, and your price range. You shouldn’t have to pay anything

additional, as many hotels pay commission. If they tell you your hotel of choice no longer

exists or is full, take it with a grain of salt, as it could well be that they just want to take

you somewhere where they know they’ll get a better commission.

Another strategy is to make your way out of the port arrivals area and head straight

for a taxi. This will cost you more, and taxi drivers look for hotel commissions as well, but

most are legitimate and once you are ‘spoken for’ hassles from touts usually diminish.

Most

papasi

are hoping that your stay on the island will mean ongoing work for them

as your guide, so if you do use one to help you

ﬁ

nd a hotel, they’ll invariably be outside

waiting for you later. If you’re not interested in this, explain (politely) once you’ve arrived

at your hotel. If you want a guide to show you around Stone Town, it’s better to arrange

one with your hotel or a travel agency. For any dealings with

papasi,

if you’re being has-

sled, a polite but

ﬁ

rm approach usually works best. Yelling or showing irritation just

makes things worse. When arranging tours and excursions, never make payments on the

street; be sure you’re paying at a legitimate oﬃce and get a receipt.

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