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TEL AVIV
© Lonely Planet Publications
149
Tel Aviv
ﺐﻴﺑا ﻞﺗ
ביבא לת
Jerusalem may only be 80km up the road, but culturally, socially and psychologically it may
as well be a million miles away. While Jerusalemites flock to the holy sites, Tel Avivans hit
the clubs. Kippas are swapped for sun visors, gefilte fish for sushi and quarried stone for
poured concrete. If it’s 3000 years of history you’re after, head for the hills, but if you’re
dead set on partying by the Med shores, pack your volleyball and bathing suit and visit
the city by the sea.
After a few days in Tel Aviv (or TA as it’s affectionately known by expats) you may start
to wonder if there is such thing as a weekend. The city seems to be on permanent holiday
and at any time of day or night you can saunter down a main street and find crowded cafés,
joggers, beach bums and dog walkers. Business is casual and no-one owns a suit.
The city combines its liberal, laissez faire attitude with low-level development and inter-
connected neighbourhoods. A short walk leads you from the glamorous beachside hotels
to the exotic Yemenite Quarter to fashionable Rothschild Blvd.
While you could spend weeks sightseeing in Jerusalem, the main attractions of Tel Aviv
can be done in a couple of days. The real reason to visit might be to escape the tourist
hordes and enjoy a city that boasts fantasic cuisine, a heaving nightlife and pleasant tree-
lined streets that spill into the Mediterranean Sea. Tel Avivans will tell you it’s the greatest
city on earth, so spend a few days and find out why.
TEL AVIV
HIGHLIGHTS
Diving into the warm Mediterranean or dig-
ging your toes into the sand at one of the
city
beaches
(p164)
Dressing up and getting down – Tel Aviv is
home to some of the hottest
nightclubs
(p177) in the Middle East
Visiting the
Diaspora Museum
(p158) – a
fine introduction to Jewish history and the
Diaspora
Delighting in the magical sea views of
Jaffa
(p182), an ancient Arab port with a lively junk
market and cheap eats
Slipping on a pair of super-sized sunglasses
and shopping till you drop on ultra-trendy
Sheinken St
(p157)
Beaches
Sheinken St
Jaffa
Diaspora
Museum
TELEPHONE CODE: 03
POPULATION: 1,160,000
150
T E L AV I V • • H i s t o r y
Tel Aviv
lonelyplanet.com
HISTORY
Out of Jaffa
While the history of Jerusalem is a grand bib-
lical epic, the making of Tel Aviv is a modern
short story centred on drive and ambition
coupled with town planning blunders.
Tel Aviv was begun by small groups
of Jews who wished to migrate from the
cramped and unsanitary confines of long-
established, predominantly Arab Jaffa.
Initially they settled in two small commu-
nities, Neve Tzedek (1886) and Neve Sha-
lom (1890), among the dunes on the sandy
coastal plain just north of the Arab town.
Before long they were joined by another 60
families who were led by Meir Dizengoff, an
0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
TEL AVIV
A
Old
Port
33
39
HaYarkon Park
D
23
To Eretz Israel
Museum (500m);
22
28
Palmach Museum (500m);
er
Yarkon Riv
Ramat Aviv (1km);
7
B'nei Dan St
Nahum Goldman Museum
kin St
26
of the Jewish Diaspora
1
38
Ussish
Sheraton
31
(2.5km); Sourasky Central
Beach
Little
Yehuda
25
36
HaMaccabi
Library (2.5km); Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv
University (2.5km);
Yirmiyahu St
Herzliya (10km)
46
Mediterranean
HaBakook St
Weizmann St
To Luna Park (1km);
Sea
Nordau Ave
Safari in the National
Hilton Beach
Park (3km)
Pinkas St
12
Bank
Gan
45
Leumi
Ha'Atzmaut
Basel St
Jabotinsk
14
27
y St
6
18
Bank
4
Hapoalim
1
3
19
HaMedina
43
Sq
2
See Hayarkon St, Ben
Arlos
21
oroff
Tel Aviv
Namir
Yehuda St & Frishman
St
Marina
Sq
Beach Map (p160)
Tel Aviv Merkaz
Train Station
Bundolo
30
Beach
44
9
Gordon
Yitzhak
City
Gordon
Beach
St
Rabin
Hall
Memorial
To Israel Diamond Museum
Sq
16
(300m); Air France (350m);
29
17
Frishman
Dutch Embassy (600m);
Jordanian Embassy (600m);
Beach
Frishman St
13
Austrian Embassy (800m);
34
Ramat Gan National Stadium
2
Kikar
ve
3
Dizengoff
15
hA
24
lec
Me
Bo
41
ul Ha
gra
'
sho
Sha
Trumpeldor
vS
37
Beach
t
t
Daniel
rS
8
20
Dizen
HaShalom
ke
Frisch St
goff S
ns
Yerushalayim
Train Station
42
t
Pi
Be
Kaplan St
11
Beach
nZ
ion
Allen
by St
Av
e
HaShalom
Ge'la
32
40
Interchange
Beach
Ha'arba'a St
See Yemenite Quarter,
Yemenite
35
Upper Allenby St &
Quarter
Aviv
Sheinken St Map (p156)
Beach
Shein
4
kin S
t
Nahalat
Chinky
Binyamin
Rd
in
Beach
Crafts Market
eg
B
Nak
hma
ni St
m
he
Charles
St
ac
vi
Chlore Park
en
Le
Yitskhak Sade
M
St
Ha
Shalom
Manshiye
da
Tower
hu
Ye
St
H
azi
aR
5
ab
lum St
Sh
ak
Lilienb
ev
a
Neve
et
a
H
H
Tzedek
St
Mena
cham Begin Rd
St
5
Yl P
ch
ere
La Guardia St
ka
tz
Ro
Lev
ins
Rd
Florentine
To HaHaganna
ki S
afo
See Rothschild Blvd,
Y
t
Train Station (100m);
Neve Tzedek &
Rd
Ben-Gurion
Shelomo
10
Florentine Map (p162)
Airport (18km);
To Zoological &
Ramla (20km);
Botanic Gardens (100m)
Jerusalem (62km)
B
To Sde Dov
Airport (2.5km)
C
Rokach Ave
TEL AVIV
Dizeng
rkon
Bin Nun St
HaYa
ehud
a
Yeh
Rein
ert S
amu
el Es
plana
HaYa
de
rkon
St
Ben Y
ehud
a St
Shlom
o Ha
Herb
Ki
ng
G
eo
rg
e
St
Chen Ave
Ibn Gvirol St
Mele
es S
t
ch St
Ibn Gvirol St
Ben Y
osh
u'a
Brandeis St
St
off St
St
Ha
Ko
Ha
vs
him
Ca
rm
St
el
St
Roths
t
fma
nn S
Kau
ma
shal
en St
Shock
Ha
r Zi
yyo
nA
ve
Sa
lm
on
St
HaM
asge
r
Aya
Aya
lon Sout
h
lon
Nor
th
child B
lvd
Alle
St
nby
St
Nah
alat
Biny
amin
St
Herzl St
lonelyplanet.com
T E L AV I V • • H i s t o r y
151
ambitious figure who had plans to create a
major Jewish town.
Taking as a model the English garden city,
several town planners were invited to submit
schemes for the new town. The plan adopted
was that of Professor Boris Schatz, founder
of the Bezalel Art School in Jerusalem. It
centred on what is now Herzl St and the new
town was given the name Tel Aviv (Hill of
Spring), from a reference in Ezekiel 3:15.
Eccentric Town Planning
Progress on the new town was briefly halted
when the Turks broke up the settlement and
expelled the Jews from the area, but with
the British victory in WWI, development
was permitted to continue. Arab riots in
Jaffa in 1921 sent many Jews fleeing for Tel
Aviv, swelling the numbers from a found-
ing 550 people in 65 homes to an outsized
40,000 inhabitants.
The town grew quickly to accommo-
date the newcomers, but the development
was on occasion a little eccentric. Allenby
St, for instance, planned as the new main
thoroughfare, was meant to run north-
south parallel to the seafront but it was
diverted in order to reach a coffeehouse
on the beach. The Neve Shanan district in
the south was planned in the shape of the
seven-branched menorah merely because
of the associated Jewish symbolism. And
INFORMATION
Assuta Hospital...........................
1
B2
Australian Embassy.....................
2
D3
Bank Leumi.................................
3
B2
British Embassy............................
4
B2
Canadian Embassy......................
5
D5
Egyptian Embassy.......................
6
C2
7
Exchange Bureau......................... B1
German Embassy........................
8
C3
Hapoalim Bank...........................
9
C2
Irish Embassy............................(see 8)
Maale Ulpan.............................
10
D5
Ministry of the Interior
(HaKira)................................
11
D3
New Zealand Embassy..............(see 8)
Police Station............................
12
B2
Surf-Drink-Play.........................
13
C3
Swiss Embassy...........................
14
B2
Tel Aviv Central Library............
15
C3
Tel Aviv Medical Centre (Ichilov)
Hospital................................
16
D3
Tourist Information Centre.......
17
C3
Turkish Embassy........................
18
B2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
181 HaYarkon St.......................
19
B2
Azrieli Centre............................
20
D3
the immigrants kept coming. The 1930s
saw waves of arrivals from overseas, many
fleeing the threat of Nazi Germany.
When war did break out in 1939, Tel
Aviv played host to about two million Al-
lied troops. It also became a centre of the
Zionist resistance against Britain’s anti-
immigration policies. In 1948, as the Brit-
ish pulled out, Jewish forces attacked Jaffa
and after bloody fighting most of the Arab
population fled, leaving the old town in Is-
raeli hands.
All this was a far cry from the English
garden city envisaged just 40 years earlier.
TEL AVIV
Bouncing Back
Tel Aviv’s growth in the 1960s and ’70s
sent it crashing into other cities, turning
neighbours such as Ramat Gan and Holon
into virtual suburbs of the greater munici-
pality. Early restrictions on the height of
buildings had to be amended when au-
thorities realised the only place to go was
up. Skyscraper development began in
earnest in the 1980s, and with it came a
hi-tech boom. Development in this area
did not go unrecognised and
Newsweek
recently called Tel Aviv one of the world’s
top 10 tech cities. Investment, however,
was hampered in the 1990s by a wave a
suicide bomb attacks that targeted buses,
cafés and nightclubs. The second intifada
Tapeo.......................................
35
C4
Tierra Health Bar.......................
36
B1
DRINKING
Coffee Bean..............................
37
C3
M.A.S.H....................................
38
B1
Rivendell.................................... B1
39
ENTERTAINMENT
Cinematheque..........................
40
C4
Israeli Opera House................(see 41)
New Cameri Theatre.................
41
C3
TLV Club................................(see 33)
Tzavta....................................(see 37)
Zoa Theatre..............................
42
C3
SHOPPING
Couple Of.................................
43
B2
Shopping Mall........................(see 20)
TRANSPORT
Air Canada.............................(see 20)
Arlosoroff Bus Terminal............
44
D2
British Airways........................(see 20)
Mazada Tours...........................
45
C2
O-Fun.......................................
46
B1
Azrieli Observatory ................(see 20)
Bowling Tel Aviv.......................
21
C2
Centre of Arts (Mishkan
Ha'Omanuyut)...................(see 41)
Helena Rubenstein Pavilion of
Contemporary Art..............(see 24)
Mini Golf..................................
22
D1
Olympus Climbing Wall..........(see 23)
Skate Park..............................(see 23)
Sportek.....................................
23
C1
Tel Aviv Museum of Art............
24
C3
SLEEPING
Alexander..................................
25
B1
HI Tel Aviv Youth Hostel...........
26
C1
Tel Aviv Hilton..........................
27
B2
EATING
2C..........................................(see 20)
Agadir Hotel...........................(see 33)
28
Benny the Fisherman................. B1
Brasserie M&R..........................
29
C3
Coffee Bean..............................
30
C2
Hummus Ashkara......................
31
B1
Messa.......................................
32
C4
Move........................................
33
B1
Shine.........................................
34
B3
152
T E L AV I V • • O r i e n t a t i o n
lonelyplanet.com
(2001–05) left Tel Aviv virtually devoid of
foreign visitors. But investment still flows,
sometimes in a big way: in 2006 Donald
Trump announced the construction of a
new 70-storey building in Ramat Gan. De-
spite its vibrancy and upward movements,
Tel Aviv is at heart a low-key city, much
of its centre still dominated by unobtru-
sive Bauhaus architecture. In 2003 Unesco
recognised this and bequeathed the ‘White
City’ with world heritage status.
TEL AVIV
Maps
The English-language
Tel Aviv-Jaffa Tour-
ist map
is an excellent resource and avail-
able from the Tourist Information Centre
(p154). Most hotels also have the free
Tourist Map of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv’s Mod-
ern Movement – Site Plan
(30NIS) indi-
cates where to find the various styles of
Bauhaus and eclectic architecture across
the city, plus descriptions of the build-
ings. It is available at the Bauhaus Centre
(see p159).
ORIENTATION
Tel Aviv is a large conglomeration of con-
necting suburbs sprawling across a coastal
plain. Most of your time will be spent in
the city’s well-defined central district,
which occupies about 6km of seafront es-
tate and is focused on four main streets
running north–south, more or less paral-
lel to the beach line. Closest to the sand
is hotel-lined Herbert Samuel Esplanade,
while a block inland is the central back-
packer accommodation area, Ben Yehuda
St. Further back is the trendy shopping
zone, Dizengoff, and then more or less
marking the easternmost limit of central
Tel Aviv is Ibn Gvirol St. These all run vir-
tually the entire length of the central city
area, from the northern tip bordered by
the Yarkon River, down as far as Allenby
St and the Yemenite Quarter, the original
1930s centre of town.
Allenby St, almost a continuation of Ben
Yehuda St, is a fifth major street, which runs
south from the city centre towards the cen-
tral bus station.
TEL AVIV IN…
INFORMATION
BOOKSHOPS
.com; Dizengoff Shopping Centre) Specialist shop for travel
books and maps. It carries a full range of Lonely Planet
guidebooks and promotes loitering – there is a comfy
sitting room with beanbags and cushions, and also a
useful board posting messages to others looking for travel
partners.
Nun Bet Books
(Map p156;
x
620 4818; 13 Idelson St)
Used books and artwork.
Steimatzky
(Map p162;
x
522 1513; 103 Allenby St)
Chain bookstore; other locations include the central bus
station, Dizengoff Centre, the Opera Tower Centre and 109
Dizengoff St .
EMERGENCY
The following shops all offer English-
language titles.
Halper’s
(Map p162;
x
629 9710; 87 Allenby St)
Used
English-language books.
Lametayel
(Map p156;
x
616 3411; www.lametayel
Ambulance
(
x
101)
Fire
(
x
102)
Police
(
x
100)
Two Days
Kick off day one with a self-guided bike tour to familiarise yourself with the city. Take along the
Tel
Aviv – The White City
map, which describes the different architectural styles of the city. Lunch on
fashionable Sheinken St before exploring the
Carmel Market
(p155) and the
Yemenite Quarter
(p155). The best days to visit this part of town are Tuesday or Friday, as nearby Nahalat Binyimin
St comes alive with a crafts fair. In the afternoon, head down to Jaffa for a poke around the
flea
market
(p184). Wrap up your day with dinner and dancing at the Old Port.
Reserve the morning to see the
Diaspora Museum
(p158) at Tel Aviv University. Later, head
down to Rothschild Blvd to visit
Independence Hall
(p161) and the redesigned
Haganah Mu-
seum
(p161). Hit the beach in the afternoon and take a stroll around arty
Neve Tzedek
(p161). If
you’ve made prior arrangements, catch some evening drama at the
New Cameri Theatre
(p178).
If that’s not your style, a pub crawl around posh Rothschild Blvd and Lilienblum St would be a
fine way to cap your Tel Aviv tour.

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