iceland-getting-started.pdf

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Destination Iceland

Few visitors can travel around Iceland without their hearts leaping into their

mouths at the sheer beauty of it all; or leave the country without a pang and

a fervent vow to return. It’s that sort of place.

Although it sits bashfully on the edge of the Arctic, this wonderful little

island contains some of the most impressive natural wonders in Europe (it

just doesn’t like to boast!). Here the continent’s biggest waterfalls thunder

down with such force that the ground trembles under your feet, the bleak and

barren highlands form Europe’s largest and loneliest desert, and the awesome

icecap Vatnajökull is the biggest outside the poles. Other spectacular natural

phenomena include smouldering volcanoes, slow-flowing glaciers, black

nightmares of lava, gushing geysers, bubbling mudpots, soothing thermal

pools and, in the darkness of winter, the magical Northern Lights.

About 20 years ago a trickle of tourists came to Iceland for nature and

isolation, challenging hiking, adventurous travel, and eerily remote wilder-

ness. That’s still the case today, but now Iceland is one of Europe’s hottest

travel destinations. As well as awe-inspiring nature, it also boasts its cute,

compact capital Reykjavík, which has a buzzing cultural scene. It’s particu-

larly renowned for its high-energy nightlife and kaleidoscopic music scene –

an ever-changing line-up of fresh, feisty bands.

Icelanders are a tough, independent bunch, but they’re also very warm

and welcoming and keen to share their island with tourists. It’s relatively

easy to get around by public transport (in summer at least), and it’s actually

a pleasure to drive around the Ring Rd. Although it’s the country’s major

highway, you frequently have to wait for sheep to amble out of the way or

herds of horses to gallop across the tarmac.

There are activities to suit all ages, many of which can be organised from

Reykjavík. They include horse riding, fishing, golf, elf hunting, whitewater

rafting, glacier walks, canyoning, caving and sea kayaking in calm fjords.

One of the big attractions is whale watching – in summer this is probably

the best place in Europe to see minkes and humpbacks, as well as dolphins

and seals. The sea cliffs around the country are a paradise for bird-watchers,

but even if you’re not a twitcher you’ll be blown away by the sight of 20,000

puffins nesting on a cliff top.

OK, so it does tend to rain a lot, the country’s beauty is apparent only when

the mist clears and it’s one of the world’s most expensive destinations. But

don’t let those things put you off. If you come prepared for all weather condi-

tions, appreciate every moment in the sun and do a little forward planning

to keep the costs down, you will never, ever regret your visit. Geologically,

Iceland is one of the world’s hot spots. As a travel destination, it could hardly

get any hotter. Either way, there’s nowhere else quite like it.

Getting Started

Nothing quite prepares you for a trip to Iceland. Most visitors expect wild

nightlife, pristine scenery and frighteningly expensive credit-card bills; to

some extent that’s all true, but Iceland offers so much more than this and if

you’re travelling on a budget there are a few very simple ways to keep costs

down. A little planning is the best way to ensure you find the remote but stun-

ningly beautiful fjords, waterfalls and geysers, dig out the best pubs and clubs,

and find the country’s hidden gems – from luxurious spas to ends-of-the-

earth–style wilderness camping – all on whatever budget you can afford.

Iceland is a very seasonal destination, though, and planning ahead will

mean you won’t spend hours driving to see a puffin colony that migrated out

to sea months previously, or get stuck waiting for a bus that will never come.

Although the short summer season (June to August) offers the widest choice

of activities and destinations, an off-season visit can be magical and gives you

the benefit of having the top tourist attractions entirely to yourself.

WHEN TO GO

Iceland has two very distinct tourist seasons. Peak season runs from June

to mid-August and during this time you’ll have the best weather, incredibly

long days, the pick of tours and excursions, and the best choice of accom-

modation. You’ll also experience crowds at major attractions and swarms

of irritating mosquitoes.

September and May are also good times to travel, with generally good

weather and far fewer tourists. Public transport will not be on a full schedule

at these times, however, and, if you’re hiking, snow may not clear from high

passes until well into July.

Outside peak season everything slows down. From late August rural at-

tractions can start to close, by 1 September buses revert to a severely reduced

winter schedule, and by the end of the month the days are getting noticeably

shorter, tours are almost nonexistent and many museums, attractions and

guesthouses outside Reykjavík and Akureyri have closed. Listings throughout

the book give details of opening times, though, and despite reduced facilities

it’s well worth considering an off-season trip to see mighty waterfalls frozen

in time, experience the aurora borealis (see p46), ski, snowmobile or ice fish,

or just luxuriate in a steaming hot pool surrounded by snow. And everywhere

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

Sleeping bag – even if you’re not camping, you can save a packet by opting for a bed without

linen at hostels, guesthouses and some hotels. A blow-up pillow is also handy.

Plenty of film or a large memory card for your camera – neither are cheap to buy locally.

Swimsuit and towel – for those glorious natural hot springs, geothermal pools and hot pots

(outdoor hot tubs).

Rain gear and thermals – if you’re planning to hike, cycle or hitch, don’t dream of travelling

without them.

Credit card – Icelanders wouldn’t know what to do without plastic.

A good dose of patience and a sense of humour – for those days when fog and low cloud

shrouds everything in your path or you’re holed up in a hut while a summer blizzard rages

outside.

For more information, see

Climate Charts, p316.

G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s

lonelyplanet.com

IF YOU DON’T LIKE THE WEATHER NOW…

Although the Icelandic summer is short, the days are long and the climate is generally mild.

Daytime temperatures hover around 12°C to 15°C, with lows of about 5°C overnight. May and

June are the driest months, but coastal areas, particularly in the south and west, are prone to

rain at any time. Thanks to the moderating effects of the Gulf Stream, winters are surprisingly

mild, and it’s often warmer in Reykjavík in midwinter than in New York or Zurich. Be prepared

for fierce, wind-driven rain, gales and fog, though, and shrieking winds and icy blizzards in the

interior. The clearest and coldest winter weather is generally around Akureyri and M�½vatn in

the central north. You’ll find a daily weather forecast in English at www.vedur.is/english, but if

you’re in any doubt just refer to the old local saying: ‘If you don’t like the weather now, wait

five minutes – it’ll probably get worse.’

you go you’ll get an especially warm welcome from the locals. Another benefit

is that accommodation costs drop substantially from about mid-September

to mid-May, when you’ll get up to 40% off the cost of a peak-season hotel

room and a 20% to 30% reduction in the rates of most guesthouses. If you’re

planning to travel around the country in the off season you’ll need your own

transport, and you should check road conditions locally as rural roads and

mountain passes can be closed due to snow.

COSTS

Iceland is famed for being an expensive destination, but with a little careful

planning travellers can make substantial savings, and those looking to indulge

a little will find that prices aren’t that much higher than elsewhere in northern

Europe. Iceland is an almost cashless society – Icelanders use their credit and

debit cards for almost every transaction, so you don’t need to make large cash

withdrawals in order to get around.

The cheapest accommodation option in Iceland is camping, but if you

don’t fancy a night under canvas you can keep costs down by choosing

sleeping-bag accommodation in guesthouses. A bed in a guesthouse or farm-

house will cost roughly Ikr1800 to Ikr2500 for sleeping-bag accommodation

and Ikr4000/7000 for singles/doubles with made-up beds. A hotel room will

cost about Ikr14,000/18,000 for a single/double in high season, with prices

dropping by up to 40% in low season. Families or groups can get cheaper

deals by finding multiple-bed rooms or, in rural areas, stay in self-contained

cottages or cabins. You can stay in wonderful timber cabins (sleeping up to

six) with kitchen, lounge, bathroom, barbecue deck and a couple of bedrooms

for under Ikr12,000 – far better than any hotel room.

Eating out in Iceland can be expensive unless you’re prepared for an over-

dose of fast food. Inexpensive, filling but largely unhealthy meals are avail-

able at the ubiquitous grill bars in petrol stations, where you’ll get a burger

or fried chicken, chips and a drink for about Ikr500. Alternatively, you can

fill up in a fast-food pizza joint for under Ikr1500. To eat well you’ll need

to cook for yourself or be prepared to pay for the privilege. Fish and lamb

are the main-course staples at most Icelandic restaurants, with fish dishes

costing about Ikr1800 to Ikr2500 and lamb dishes anywhere from Ikr2200

to Ikr4000. Add dessert or the odd bottle of wine and eat out over the course

of your holiday, and your credit-card bill can be criminal. One helpful tip is

to eat your main meal in the middle of the day, when lunch-time buffets or

tourist menus can be great value.

Although car hire in Iceland is expensive (about Ikr33,000 to Ikr40,000 per

week), a car offers far greater freedom to visit out-of-the-way attractions;

splitting the cost between other travellers can keep costs down and begin to

HOW MUCH?

Guesthouse accommoda-

tion Ikr2000-4000

Campsite free-Ikr800

Reykjavík-Akureyri bus

Ikr6600

1L petrol Ikr132

Cup of coffee Ikr280

Pint of Egil’s beer Ikr600

Loaf of bread Ikr300

Whale-watching trip

Ikr3700

Icelandic knitted jumper

Ikr8000-10,000

Knitted hat Ikr1700

Cuddly troll Ikr1900

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