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114

Southeast Sweden

This superb region has something for everyone: tiny islands, fairytale castles, an epic canal,

wonderful medieval towns and a party-hard beach life.

SOUTHEAST SWEDEN

Småland’s most famous feature is Glasriket, the ‘Kingdom of Crystal’, where beautiful glass

artworks are produced. Don’t miss a mesmerising visit to one of the ‘hot shops’, where globules

of molten glass are twisted and tweaked into wondrous shapes.

Blekinge was the seat of Sweden’s 17th-century sea power and the incredible naval city of

Karlskrona, now a Unesco World Heritage site, is a singular mixture of brutal fortresses and

grandiloquent design.

Most of the superb island of Öland has also made the Unesco list, due to its unique geology,

ring forts and Iron Age burial sites. It’s also one of Sweden’s favourite vacation spots, even the

king and queen kick off the cares of state here on their summer holidays.

Östergötland, laced through by the Göta Canal, is home to the small but perky industrial

cities of Norrköping and Linköping as well as the lakeside town of Vadstena, one of Sweden’s

jewels.

Gotland is one of Sweden’s richest historical regions with untold numbers of prehistoric

sites, Viking rune stones galore, medieval churches and the Unesco-listed walled town of Visby.

Throw in endless sandy beaches and you’ve got yourself a perfect holiday destination.

HIGHLIGHTS

Admire the military might of

Karlskrona

(p133), a superb naval fortress town

Check out the Renaissance perfection of

Kalmar’s

Slott

(p125), a castle right out of a storybook

Let the kids run wild with Pippi Longstocking at

Vimmerby’s theme park,

Astrid Lingren’s Värld

(p132) or spend a day at the vast

Kolmården

zoo

(p143)

Blow your own glass vase, or buy one made

by a master in

Glasriket

(p127)

Wonder at the windmills, bask on a beach,

or get medieval at Eketorp fortress on long,

thin

Öland

(p137)

Climb the hilly streets and prowl the walls

of 13th-century

Visby

(p152)

Take a lazy trip on the

Göta Canal

(p146)

POPULATION: 1,404,652

AREA: 49,748 SQ KM

HIGHEST POINT: STENABOHÖJDEN (327M)

Göta

Canal

Kolmården

Zoo

Vimmerby

Visby

Glasriket

Kalmar Slott

Karlskrona

Öland

www.lonelyplanet.com

S M Å L A N D • • J ö n k ö p i n g & H u s k v a r n a

115

Orientation

Southeast Sweden stretches south along the

coast from Stockholm to Skåne and inland

as far as Lake Vättern. It incorporates the

following

landskap

areas: Småland (includ-

ing Jönköpings län, Kronobergs län and

Kalmar län); the island Öland, off the east

coast; Blekinge in the south; Östergötland,

the eastern part of Götland, which is split

off from the western half by the massive

Lake Vättern; and the island of Gotland.

Information

REGIONAL TOURIST OFFICES

Visitors can contact the following for more

detailed information on the area:

Blekinge Turism

(

0455-30 50 20; www.blekinge

turism.com; Ronnebygatan 2, SE-37132 Karlskrona)

to Kristianstad or north from Karlskrona to

Kalmar. There are also SJ services from Ka-

lmar to Linköping, and inland routes from

Oskarshamn to Nässjö and Kalmar to Göte-

borg. The Nässjö to Jönköping and Falköping

trains are run by

Vättertåg

(

0380-55 44 02)

The following companies provide re-

gional transport links. If you’re planning to

spend some time here, it’s worth enquiring

about monthly passes or a

sommarkort,

of-

fering discount travel from midsummer to

mid-August. Check also the respective web-

sites for routes, schedules, fares and passes;

these sites don’t always have information in

English, but if you call the telephone num-

bers listed you’ll usually reach someone

who can help you in English.

BlekingeTrafiken

(

0455-56980; www.blekinge

trafiken.se)

SOUTHEAST SWEDEN

Gotlands Turistföreningen

(

0498-20 17 00; www

.gotland.com; Box 1403, Hamngatan 4, SE-62125, Visby)

Smålands Turism

(

036-35 12 70; www.visit

-smaland.com; Västra Storgatan 18A, Box 1027, SE-55111

Jönköping)

Turism i Kalmar Län

(

0480-44 83 30; www.kalmar

.regionforbund.se/turism; Nygatan 34, Box 762, SE-39127

Kalmar)

Turism i Kronoberg

(

0470-74 25 70; turism.krono

berg@kommun.vaxjo.se; Stationen, Norra

Järnvägsgatan, SE-35230 Växjö)

Ölands Turist

(

0485-56 06 00; www.olandsturist.se;

Turistvägen, Box 74, SE-38621 Färjestaden)

Östsvenska Turistrådet

(

011-19 44 73; www

.ostgotaporten.com; SE-60181 Norrköping)

Jönköpings Länstrafik

(

0771-444333; www.jlt.se)

Kalmar Läns Trafik

(

0491-761200; www.klt.se)

Kollektiv Trafiken

(

21 41 12)

Länstrafiken Kronoberg

(

0771-767076; www

.lanstrafikenkron.se)

ÖstgötaTrafiken

(

0771-211010; www.ostgota

trafiken.se)

SMÅLAND

The region of Småland is one of dense for-

ests, glinting lakes and bare marshlands.

Historically it served as buffer zone between

the Swedes and Danes; the eastern and south-

ern coasts in particular saw territorial tus-

sles. Today it’s better know for the Glasriket

(Kingdom of Glass), a sparsely populated

area in the central southeast, which is dotted

with crystal workshops. Småland is broken

up into smaller counties

(läns):

Jönköpings in

the northwest, Kronobergs in the southwest,

and Kalmar in the east.

Getting Around

There are various small airports scattered

through the region, usually with daily di-

rect flights to/from Copenhagen and Stock-

holm; see individual sections for details.

Year-round ferry services go between

Visby on Gotland and both Oskarshamn and

Nynäshamn.

Express buses mainly travel along the coast

(to Västervik, Oskarshamn, Kalmar and

Karlskrona), follow the E4 via Jönköping, or

cruise along highway No 33 from Jönköping

to Västervik (via Eksjö and Vimmerby). A

few express services go through the region’s

interior; these are operated by

Svenska Buss

(

0771-67 67 67; www.svenskabuss.se)

and

Swebus

Express

(

0200-21 82 18; www.swebusexpress.se)

The main Malmö to Stockholm railway

runs through the region, but you’ll have to

change to local trains to reach most places of

interest. SJ trains run west from Karlskrona

JÖNKÖPING & HUSKVARNA

036 / pop 119,927

Whenever you hear the scratching of matches

on sandpaper, spare a thought for Jönköping –

birthplace of the safety match. You can visit

the restored production area here to learn

more about this vital, but little considered,

necessity.

Fairytale illustrator John Bauer was in-

spired by the forests around Jönköping,

and the town museum shows off his superb

otherworldly drawings of trolls, knights and

116

S M Å L A N D • • J ö n k ö p i n g & H u s k v a r n a

www.lonelyplanet.com

SMÅLAND

To Linköping

(104km)

To Norrköping

(60km)

80 km

50 miles

Vättern

GÖTALAND

Gränna

Tranås

GÖTALAND

Sommen

Kisa

E22

Visingsö

Aneby

Åsunden

Gamleby

Jönköping

Huskvarna

SOUTHEAST SWEDEN

To Göteborg

(60km)

Skurugata

Nature

Reserve

Eksjö

Västervik

Norra Kvill

National Park

Mariannelund

Nässjö

Vimmerby

Solgen

Nömmen

Vetlanda

JÖNKÖPINGS

LÄN

Savsjö

Bellen

Hultsfred

127

Vrigstad

Mälilla

125

KALMAR

LÄN

Oskarshamn

Store Mosse

Smålandsstenar

National Park

Viserum

Grankullavik

Byxelkrok

Berga

Värnamo

Klavreström

Åseda

Högsby

Blå Jungfrun

National Park

Sandvik

Böda

Helgasjön

Dädesjö

Savsjostrom

125

Ruda

Mönterås

Bolmsö

Bolmen

Lidhult

Alvesta

Växjö

Bergdala

Hovmantorp

Strömbergshyttan

Åfors

Eriksmäla

Boda

Johansfors

Emmaboda

Nybro

Traryd

Markaryd

120

Älmhult

Åsnen

Rävemåla

Tingsryd

Ryd

Skruv

Kalmar

To Halmstad

(14km)

KRONOBERGS

LÄN

Färjestaden

Ljungby

Sandbäckshult

Målerås

Gullaskruv

E22

Hälleberga

Kosta

Orrefors

136

Halltorp

Gärdslösa

Långlöt

Lerkaka

Borgholm

Lönsboda

Osby

Backaryd

Torsås

Visselfjärda

Mörbylånga

Olofström

B L E K I N G E

LÄN

Fridlevstad

Grönhögen

Ottenby

Karlskrona

Gräsgård

To Helsingborg

(36km)

Immeln

SKÅNE

To Malmo

(100km)

E22

Karlshamn

Sölvesborg

Tjärö

Ronneby

Aspö

Drottningskärs

Kastell

BALTIC SEA

Kungsholms

Fort

princesses. Other famous sons and daugh-

ters include ABBA’s Agnetha Fältskog, and

indie band The Cardigans.

From Jönköping, at Vättern’s southern

end, an urban strip stretches 7km eastwards,

sucking in Huskvarna, famous for its sewing

machines, chainsaws and motorcycles.

Sights & Activities

JÖNKÖPING

Apparently ‘the only match museum in the

world’,

Tändsticksmuseet

(

10 55 43; Tändstick-

sgränd 27; adult/under 19yr Skr40/free;

10am-5pm

Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 11am-3pm Tue-Sat

Sep-May)

, in an old match factory, deals with

Information

The

tourist office

(

10 50 50; www.jonkoping.se;

9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat yr-round &

11am-4.30pm Sun Jun-Aug)

is in the Juneporten

complex at the train station.

Banks can be found along Östra Storga-

tan. The large

library

(Dag Hammarskjölds plats)

with Internet access and café, is adjacent to

the Länsmuseum.

this practical Swedish invention. It’s quite an

eye-opener: the industry was initially based

on cheap child labour, workers frequently

suffered from repulsive ‘phossy jaw’, and it

was common knowledge that phosphorus

matches were good for ‘speeding up inherit-

ance and inducing abortions’.

Near the Tändsticksmuseet is the

Radio

Museum

(

71 39 59; Tändsticksgränd 16; admission

Skr20;

10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, 11am-3pm

ÖLAND

www.lonelyplanet.com

S M Å L A N D • • J ö n k ö p i n g & H u s k v a r n a

117

Sun Jun–mid-Aug; closed Sun & Mon mid-Aug–May)

with

a collection of over 1000 radio sets and re-

lated memorabilia.

Jönköpings Länsmuseum

(

30 18 00; Dag Ham-

marskjölds Plats; adult/under 18yr Skr40/free;

11am-

5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 11am-8pm Wed)

has collections

covering local history and contemporary

culture, but the real reason for coming

here is to see the haunting fantasy works of

artist John Bauer (1882–1918), inspired by

Jönköping’s countryside.

West of town is the expanse of

Stadsparken.

Its curiosities include the 1458 mounted

ornithological taxidermic masterpieces of

Fågelmuseet

(

12 99 83; admission free;

11am-

5pm May-Aug)

, and the

Friluftsmuseet

(

30 18 00;

admission free;

11am-5pm Jun-Aug)

with a charm-

ing collection of old buildings.

Snakes, crocodiles, primates and tropical

birds fill

Tropikhuset

(

16 89 75; Kompanigatan 8;

adult/3-14yr Skr50/30;

10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm

Sep-May)

, 2km east of town in the A6 Centre.

From April to September, visitors can

enjoy different

cruises

(

070 637 17 00)

on Lake

Vättern, aboard the MS

Nya Skärgården.

Evening trips include a buffet dinner and

cost around Skr420. The boat departs from

Hamnpiren; book at the tourist office.

For waterskiing or boat hire, contact

Mar-

inbod

(

12 04 87; Hamnpiren;

Jun-early Sep)

. Wa-

terskiing, wakeboarding and kneeboarding

all cost Skr200 per 15 minutes; small motor

boats cost Skr250 per three hours or Skr495

for one day.

HUSKVARNA

SOUTHEAST SWEDEN

Square-jawed men going hunting while

their wives snuggle up to their sewing ma-

chines: the

Husqvarna fabriksmuseum

(

14 61

62; www.husqvarna-museum.nu; Hakarpsvägen 1; adult/12-

18yr Skr40/20;

10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat &

Sun May-Sep, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr)

conjures up

Also here, military history fans will appreci-

ate the

Försvarshistoriska Museum

(

19 04 12;

adult/child Skr30/15;

10am-5pm)

, which examines

18th- and 19th-century soldiers’ lives.

a vivid technicolour 1950s world. The fac-

tory began as an arms manufacturer, but

diverted into motorbikes, chainsaws, cook-

ing ranges and microwave ovens over the

years, and this interesting museum charts

the company’s rise.

500 m

0.3 miles

JÖNKÖPING

INFORMATION

Library.........................................

Tourist Office...............................

SLEEPING

City Hotel....................................

Elite Stora Hotellet.......................

Grand Hotel.................................

Scandic Hotel Portalen...............

Krogen Svarta Börsen.................

Mäster Gudmunds Källare..........

Nyfickan....................................

DRINKING

Systembolaget...........................

TRANSPORT

Jönköpings Länstrafik Office......(see 2)

Lake Vättern Cruises................... B2

Local Buses................................

Long-Distance Bus Station..........

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Jönköpings Länsmuseum.............

Marinbod (Boat & Cycle Hire)......

Radio Museum.............................

Tändsticksmuseet.........................

EATING

Bernards Konditori...................... B3

Claras Coffeebar........................

Hamnpiren Restaurants..............

ICA Supermarket........................(see 2)

Hamnpiren

To Stadsparken

(1km)

Tä

ndstic

ksg

Train

Station

änd

Järnv

ägsg

atan

Kap

ellg

ata

atan

Sko

lgat

Västra

Parkga

Storga

tan

Juneporten

Hotell-

plan

V ä t t e r n

Hamnparken

Klo

ster

tan

mä

rgrä

Torggrä

sta

Små

land

sga

tan

Kyr

kog

atan

sga

Väs

atan

gård

riks

gat

or gs

ga t e

sjöle

den

Oxt

Munksjön

Odengatan

Gju

terig

atan

Mun

Målargatan

Göta

Hovrätt

Museigatan

Träd

Fab

Bar

ndg

atan

Hovrätt

gränd s-

nar

Sö

dra

psg

Lant

gata

tgö

nns

Bor

tan

Bru

Gamla

Rådhuset

Hovrätts-

Smed

jegat

torget

Skolgränd

aga

Nyg

atan

Sofiekyrkan

Rådhusparken

Storg

atan

rega

Östra

Vatte

ngran

tan

To SweCamp Villa

Björkhagen (3km);

Huskvarna (7km)

Kristine

Kyrka

Stra

Östra

Torget

To A6 Centre

(2km)

To Airport (8km)

118

S M Å L A N D • • J ö n k ö p i n g & H u s k v a r n a

www.lonelyplanet.com

For powerful drama, catch Huskvarna’s

Fallens Dag

(Waterfall Day)

, at the end of August.

When darkness falls the floodgates open and

a torrential illuminated waterfall is released;

contact the tourist office for details.

From Jönköping, take bus 1 to Huskvarna

(Skr20), 7km away.

(except room 37, which is correspondingly

cheaper), and breakfast is available (Skr45).

Eating & Drinking

For a seaside vibe and loads of choice head

straight for Hamnpiren (the harbour pier),

where you’ll find a blur of restaurants with

good lunch specials (around Skr70) and

merry crowds gathered for evening meals.

For cheaper alternatives, try inside the June-

porten transport/shopping complex.

Krogen Svarta Börsen

(

71 22 22; Kyrkogatan 4;

mains Skr270-335)

Fresh, seasonal ingredients

grace the plates at the best dining establish-

ment in town. A great atmosphere, superb

food and superb service justify the high

prices.

Mäster Gudmunds Källare

(

10 06 40; Kapell-

gatan 2; lunch Skr65, dinner mains Skr150-195;

closed

Sun summer)

This appealing place is in a 17th-

Sleeping

JÖNKÖPING

SOUTHEAST SWEDEN

Grand Hotel

(

71 96 00; info@grandhotel-jonkoping

.se; Hovrättstorget; s/d from Skr770/930, discounted to

Skr490/590)

In a stately 17th-century building,

this central choice is probably the cheapest in

town. Budget, standard and superior rooms

are available.

City Hotel

(

71 92 80; hotel@cityhotel.nu; Västra

Storgatan 25; s/d from Skr895/995, discounted to Skr545/645)

Another midrange accommodation option,

the friendly family-run City is a step up in

quality from the Grand. Rooms are dated

but comfortable – those on the top floor

have balconies with lake views – and there’s

a sauna.

Scandic Hotel Portalen

(

585 42 00; portalen@

scandic-hotels.com; Barnarpsgatan 6; s/d from Skr1290/1490,

discounted to Skr790/790;

)

One of Scandic’s

two Jönköping hotels, the stylish Portalen

is the place to unwind. All rooms are dec-

orated with Scandinavian coolness, and

superiors have private fridges and coffee

makers. The hotel also has a large spa with

beauty treatments.

Elite Stora Hotellet

(

10 00 00; info@jonkoping

.elite.se; Hotellplan; s/d from Skr1295/1495, discounted to

Skr675/775;

)

The Elite is the town’s most

majestic hotel, with a good location opposite

the harbour. Rooms have folksy accents, yet

are very classy. There’s a sauna, pool table,

restaurant and pub; if you get a chance, sneak

a peek at the grandiose banqueting hall.

SweCamp Villa Björkhagen

(

12 28 63; Frig-

gagatan 31; villabjorkhagen@swipnet.se; sites Skr170-220,

cabins & rooms from Skr575)

This big site is on the

century cellar, with beautiful vaulted ceil-

ings, and has good-value lunches (although

not in summer). Evening mains are mainly

meaty and fishy local Swedish dishes, such

as grilled char from Vättern lake, with a few

nods to French cuisine.

Nyfickan

(

19 06 86; lunch Skr50)

In an unu-

sual brick building that once belonged to

the match-making empire, the excellent Ny-

fickan is part of the town’s cultural centre. It’s

an arty affair with good coffee, cakes, tacos,

falafel and sandwiches. There’s a decent veg-

gie selection, and options for people on glu-

ten- and sugar-free diets.

Other good cafés include

Claras Coffeebar

(

30 01 15; Barnarpsgatan 18)

, serving gourmet

panini

in stylish surrounds; and

Bernards

Konditori

(

71 11 21; Kyrkogatan 12)

, with com-

mendable coffee and a glassed-in terrace for

people-watching.

There’s an

ICA supermarket

(Juneporten complex)

and

Systembolaget

(cnr Skolgatan & Trädgårdsgatan)

nearby.

lakeshore, approximately 3km east of town.

There are various accommodation options,

plus playgrounds, pedal cars and minigolf

for children.

HUSKVARNA

Getting There & Around

Jönköping airport

(

31 11 00)

is located about

8km southwest of the town centre.

Skyways

(

0771-95 95 00)

has daily flights to/from

Stockholm Arlanda, and

SAS

(

0770-72 77 27)

operates daily flights to/from Copenhagen.

Bus 18 serves the airport, or else a taxi costs

around Skr180.

Most local buses leave from opposite

Juneporten on Västra Storgatan. Local trans-

port is run by

Jönköpings Länstrafik

(

0771-44

STF Vandrarhem Huskvarna

(

14 88 70; www.husk

varnavandrarhem.se; Odengatan 10, Huskvarna; 1-/2-/3-bed

rm Skr260/340/450)

Standards are high at this

sizeable year-round hostel. Clean and twin-

kling rooms have TV and private toilets

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Sweden 4th Edition, May 2009 [EPUB]