MangaSpirits.pdf

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Manga Spirits to Crochet or Knit
Doll height, a shade over eight inches tall
Materials:
baw 3-23-2012
-Worsted weight yarn for the body. The models were made with Vanna's Choice by Lionbrand, in
Beige. 49yds/ oz or 1.56 m/gm
-Size E crochet hook for Crochet Spirit
-Size 3 (3.25mm) single point knitting needles for Knit Spirit
-3/4 inch buttons for jointing the head
-Strong carpet, buttonhole, or craft thread for jointing the head
-fusible interfacing and white cotton broadcloth for painting eyes
-Pigma Micron pen and number 2 pencil for drawing and outlining eyes
-Acrylic paint for painting eyes
-Number 2 shader paintbrush for painting eyes
-Fiberfill
-Pipecleaners for arm mobility, optional
-Fuzzy mohair type yarn for hair
Design by Beth Webber, please do not copy or sell this pattern
3-27-2012
Crochet Manga Spirit
Crochet Gauge: five sts = 1 inch
Crochet Head:
Work in rounds, do not join rounds. Use a row marker to keep track of the rows
1: Ch2, 10 sc in second ch from hook. 10 sc
2: Two sc in each sc around. 20 sc
3: Two sc in each sc around. 40 sc
4-19: Sc in each sc around. 40 sc.
20: (Sc next two sc tog) around. 20 sc
At this point, prepare the head button and insert it into the head. Cut a 24 inch length of craft thread
and thread it doubled into a needle that will easily pass through the holes in your buttons. Pass the
thread through one hole in the button, and back out the opposite hole. Repeat this so that the button is
secure on the thread and you have close to equal lengths of thread exiting the two button holes.
Thread these lengths onto a large tapestry needle and insert the button into the head with the threads
hanging out of the neck opening. Tie these threads to something, like a toothpick, so that the button
Design by Beth Webber, please do not copy or sell this pattern
3-27-2012
stays securely in the neck while you stuff the head.
Stuff the head firmly, but not so hard that you stretch your stitches and the fiberfill shows. When you
get close to the top, stop and work row 21.
21: (Sc next two sc tog) around. 10 sc. Continue stuffing the head until it pleases you, then close the
top of the head by working (sc next two sc tog) around to closed. Finish off and bury the yarn end in
the head. The head should measure close to nine inches in circumference.
Manga eyes!
The eyes are drawn and then painted on white cotton broadcloth that has been faced with fusible (iron-
on) interfacing. Cotton broadcloth gives a smooth surface to draw on, and fusing the interfacing to it
adds stability and keeps it from fraying.
Here is a picture tutorial for making Manga Eyes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29184580@N04/sets/72157629324189014/
Make an eye template from a 1/4 inch button and paperboard from your breakfast cereal box. Manga
eyes are very large and oval; they are the dominant feature of the face. So, take your button and make
two circles slightly overlapping one another. With a pencil, draw an oval shape from these two circles.
With very sharp scissors, make a single cut from the edge of the cardboard into the eye shape, then
carefully cut around your oval. The cardboard with the oval hole in it is your template; it is easier to
draw around the inside of this than to try to draw around the outside of the oval you cut out.
Cut a square of broadcloth eight inches by eight inches, and a square of fusible interfacing slightly
small than this. Follow the instructions with the interfacing to fuse it to the broadcloth. This will give
Design by Beth Webber, please do not copy or sell this pattern
3-27-2012
you plenty of fabric to experiment making eyes with. Let the fabric cool off and check to make sure
the interfacing is well fused to the fabric.
Use your template and a pencil to draw a pair of eyes. I start with a straight line that is the top of the
eye, then place the template so that just a bit of the line shows. Draw the eye from this line around the
template. Draw a smaller oval within this oval, then outline all of this with a fine Pigma Micron pen
or a fine Sharpie pen in black.
Paint the eye as you desire. The Manga book I used suggested using dark and light shades of the same
color for the inner and outer oval, to put more color impact into the eye. Or, you can paint the inner
oval black like a pupil, and the outer oval your eye color. It is easier (for me) to start by painting the
outer oval, then the inner oval. Use a very small brush, like a number 2 shader, for the painting. Or,
you can use a toothpick for even more control. Let these dry completely, then re-outline your eye with
black pen and add eyeshine...a white dot of paint (use a toothpick) at the corner of the eye overlapping
the two ovals.
When all of this is thoroughly dry (I would wait several hours), lightly paint over this with satin
varnish. When everything is once again dry, you can cut out your eyes.
Sculpting the head and facial features:
This head is very simply needlesculpted, to give a slight nose bridge and to shape the back of the head.
Temporarily place the eyes on the front of the head, then mark the inner top corners of the eyes with
two straight pin. Thread a long, large eye needle with body yarn and run this from the bottom center
back of the head out through one of the marked points on the front of the head. Take a tiny stitch and
run the thread back to the beginning point, one stitch over. Repeat this for the other side.
Pull the yarn ends gently to indent the front of the head, then tie off the yarn with a double knot and
bury the ends in the head. Apply a thin layer of glue (use a toothpick) to the back of the eyes and glue
them to the head. Embroider a tiny nose at the level of the bottom of the eyes with two or three straight
stitches of body yarn. Keep the mouth very simple. You can cut a small circle of felt, or a small smile,
and glue this to the face. Or use six strands of embroidery floss to stitch a simple mouth. Two straight
stitches, the bottom stitch slightly shorter than the top, works nicely.
Design by Beth Webber, please do not copy or sell this pattern
3-27-2012
Crochet neck spacer:
work in rounds; do not join.
1: Ch2, six sc in the second ch from the hook.
2: Two sc in each sc around. Join to first sc and finish off. Weave ends in.
Crochet body:
work in rounds, do not join.
1: Ch2, seven sc in the second ch from the hook 7sc
2: Two sc in each sc around. 14sc
3: Two sc in each sc around. 28Sc
4-5: Sc in each sc around. 28 sc.
At this point we will join the head to the neck. Do this by threading the loose neck threads from the
head button through the hole in the neck spacer, the hole in the neck of the body, and then two each
through a hole in your second button. Pull the threads tight and use a surgeons knot and then a double
knot to tie off the neck jointing. If you are not familiar with a surgeons knot, just do a Google search
on this term and you'll find very easy instructions on how to tie this. It is strong, and won't slip while
you are finishing tying the knot :-)
6-7: Sc in each sc around. 28 sc
8: (Sc in the next five sts, sc next two sc tog) around. 24 sc
9-12: Sc in each sc around. 24 sc
13: (Sc in the next five sc, two sc in the next) around. 28 sc
14-17: Sc in each sc around. 28 sc. Stuff the body firmly but do not stretch the stitches.
18: Flatten the last round of the body and sc the body closed with 14 sc. If necessary, add some more
stuffing as you close the body opening.
First leg:
1: Turn and sc in front loop of the next seven sc, turn and sc in the remaining loops of the same sc
stitches to make the first round of the leg. 14 sc. Do not join; continue working in rounds.
2-4: Sc in each sc around.
5: (Sc in the next five sc, sc next two sc tog) around. 12 sc
6-15: Sc in each sc around. 12 sc. Stuff leg .
16: (Sc next two sc tog) around, 6sc. Sl st in next st and finish off leaving a long tail. Top off the
stuffing. Thread the yarn tail through the last row of stitches and pull tight to close the bottom of the
foot. Bury the yarn end in the leg.
Second leg:
Join with a sc in the front loop of the next unworked sc that stitched the body closed and repeat rows 1
through 16 for the second leg.
Design by Beth Webber, please do not copy or sell this pattern
3-27-2012

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